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D.C. Sept 27/28


Dan_Larson
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Myself and Lu Liu(c.c. poster)hooked up on this site and after a mt. si meeting decided we were compatible for a climb (slog) together.Started Paradise at 10 am and took our time in running shoes to camp muir(bad feet)once there we set up the tent , ate and decided on a midnight wake up.We soon found out that we were the only ones on the mountain going for the summit that day ( season is over pretty much)RMI was doing a 5 day seminar at muir and the flats but no summit attempt on this day.We decided at 830pm sleep was out of the question and started to get ready. We were crossing the cowlitz at 10 pm and the night was as clear as possible full moon and all.The moat at the base of the cleaver was huge and practically came up to(well did)the narrow ledge complete with handline installed by RMI.Moving up the cleaver was easy as the markings were unmistakable We took a short rest at the top of the cleaver and began the final (endless) portion of the climb.I got sick (as I do half the time) at about 13000 feet but deep breathing and dry heaving helped a lot.Summited about 5 am to a steamy moonlit crater no wind and approx. 30 degrees. Enough of this fun lets go home. all went well heading down UNTIL we get to the little crossing at the base of the cleaver.We have unroped by now (thank god)and I am crossing the tiny ledge first . All is well until TWAAAANG, seems the middle picket holding the handline is not staying in the rocks a tremendous amount of slack(6 feet or so)and I go over the edgeI am holding with right hand and soon holding with left also soon head (w/o helmet is swinging into the wall with big rocks..... WHAM, huge gash blood running down face and a resting heartbeat of about 500 I get back on the ledge thank god and finish off the last 30 seconds of the ledge. ,partner crosses slower than normal (hmmm) pulling in the slack from the loose picket. the rest of the D.C. was uneventful as it should be. I have done the dog routes many times and it has been pretty tame this is the first time I have come across something that actually made me realize even the dog routes are to be taken seriously . a learning experience for sure.

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