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[TR] Splitter Granite in the Cheam Range- 10/2/2004


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Climb: Splitter Granite in the Cheam Range-


Date of Climb: 10/2/2004


Trip Report:

Lowly Conway Peak is composed of some type of granitic rock, easily distinguishable from the poo-brown rock that a lot of the Cheam Range is made of. It's a very pleasent hike, take the Lucky Four Mine trail from the southern end of the highest switchback of the road that leads down the east side of Jones Lake. With some clearence, you can drive to about 2500 ft. When the trail breaks into open meadows, head up - it's very obvious. The upper west face of the peak features several enticing (but short) cracks, I chose a nice 4th - easy 5th line that spiced up the last 200 feet to the top. Some of the cracks on the face look comparable in quality to the Lower Malamute - however, it's a 4 hour walk to get there....


I made the trip mostly for a look at the winter access to the north sides of Foley and Welch. Looks like excellent access via skis, as long as the road is drivable. Foley looks like a good winter objective from the north. North Face of Welch looks awful, which I expected since it looks awful looking down it from the top. Anyone know if it's been tried (or climbed) in winter??

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nothing much done on the north sides in the lucky four.



fairley notes berntsen and company's FWA of foley as SE ridge, but i recall that as being E face to SE ridge.

oddly, it seems the neighbouring NE ridge directly from the old lucky four mine has no recorded ascent. it's not that steep...

there's not much of a N face on foley; the N ridge is not that far from the NE.



big N face. i wouldn't call it awful; maybe more like awe-inspiring.

there may have been attempts, but the only N side adventure i'm aware of is an attempt on the NE ridge by dave jones and i many years ago. we made a bit of progress, but the snow was falling apart, and having cornice debris narrowly miss us convinced us we should go away that day - we never found another day to come back...


good luck,


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