klotzy Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 As someone who has quietly read most of the posts regarding Dishman both here as well as www.InlandNWRock.com I offer a modest comment. In all honesty I have never climbed at Dishman though I am relocating to the area so I hope to one day, so my concern is simply as a climber. In regards to the clean-up on Sept 26th I offer this: -Energy, effort and results are commendable. -The discussion and negotiations leading up to the clean-up were poor (based on posts no first hand knowledge) -How the clean-up was announced and the tally listed was very aggressive bordering on taunting. Perhaps leading to the quick and hostile response. -The initial bolting practices (holds and bolts by cracks), chipping, graffiti, etc... as well as the subsequent rebolting were wrong but the latter was challenged. Andy & MattP I have always respected the work the AF has done and thank you for your vigilance. As to the WCC I have little knowledge but would be interested in learning more. Regardless anyone who offers up one's time is to be commended. I agree that people need to step aside; it seems that even the both of you have some personal involvement. That is why I encourage you to advise the AF to step in to help address the concerns of the landowners as well as mediate with the climbers involved on all sides. Perhaps with the leadership of the AF and the cooperation of the WCC, Area Climbers and perhaps the Spokane Mountaineers a Spokane Climber Advisory Board (SCAB) could be created? The cost of such a board could be funded by holding a fund raiser with excess proceeds going to make Land Owner approved improvements i.e. Gate or Barrier. Of course the creation of such a Board would require the cooperation of all parties involved as well as a temporary ban on all route development/improvement. This would include the obvious bolting, chipping impacts as well as the cleaning of trad lines (established or FA) or removal of any more bolts/holds etc... As for evaluating routes this would be a job for the Board. To the AF Enough could be said about AF to fill pages of posts so I can only thank you all for your work and shamefully confess that even though I am aware of the importance of your work I have never taken the time to become a member. I hope to rectify that someday. I understand the importance of trying to work with all involved and maintain some measure of impartiality but I suggest that a formal statement regarding Dishman specifically is important for all parties concerned. The benefits of a statement from AF directed at Dishman rather than simply listing a set of standards put forth by AF is that everyone involved would know exactly what your organization wanted the end result to be. I assume that you want the people who are involved with the bolting, chipping, etc... to repair or at the very least accept that such practices are inappropriate if for no other reason then the land owner says no. You also want to encourage future climbers involved with a similar conflict to seek dialogue before action. I understand this takes time and I do not presume to tell your organization that closing crags is easy- reopening takes time. Supporting a closing would be the last resort only if necessary to maintain a relationship with the land owner. I feel that regardless of where anyone stands we are all climbers and would prefer to climb rather than not climb. It is clear that the land owner does not want this to continue. I am not suggesting a closure just some oversight and arbitration. The results at Dishman could affect all climbers, especially those dealing with access issues. Again I do not need to be reminding AF that people do talk and other land owners must look unfavorably at what is going on at Dishman. To finish I hope the AF takes this into consideration to help resolve the conflicts. Most climbers, my self included do not have the practice or information to resolve this without the experience of an organization like the Access Fund. If you do decided to get more actively involved post a call for help from area climbers I hope that I can apply the commitment to assist. Sincerely Mike Klotz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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