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rock-ice

double rope question

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Is there anything wrong with using two 10mm (or 10.5mm) ropes in a double rope configuration? I don't want to waste $200 on a set of doubles or twins that I won't use more than 3 or 4 times a year. Thanks.

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If you are climbing in a party of three I would just be belayed on a single. You can use them as doubles, but there is no advantage. The diadvantage would be feeding out rope through the belay device will be slow, so you increase your chance of being shorted when you go for a clip.

If you want to use doubles inorder to protect a pitch that wandering back forth and want the ropes to split up the pro to reduce drag, the drag will be in your belay device.

Edited by ken4ord

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No but you don't need to belay in double/half rope config.... ie belayer doesn't need to have both lead ropes in device as leader leads... one rope is fine. Scenario:

 

Leader should be belayed on 1 rope; as leader leads pitch she/he should clip both ropes through each piece. At end of pitch put both singles into the anchor (therefore leader should be tied in to both ropes) and belay both second simultaneously using reverso or other comparable device. First follower unclips his/her rope out of each piece making sure to not take second followers rope out of piece while doing so. Second follower, who should stay 20-30' behind first follower or risk inserting head into first followers ass if first follower were to fall (Brock are you reading this?) and clean all pieces. If done correctly can be almost as fast as a party of 2.

 

Make sense?

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