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SnowByrd

Starting a rack

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aid pieces if used singly. equalize all three together in a nest and they may be truck. common practice in england. 13 nuts is a better value than 10 for the same price

 

If the nuts are directly comparable, yes. Looks like many people think the DMM to be really superior and maybe worth the extra money per nut.

 

drC

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Don't forget a ton of webbing. Just get a bunch of 1" and smaller tubular webbing, and cut it to various lengths. If you have a good amount of webbing, and basic carabiners, then a set of nuts (Huevos, Wallnuts, HB offsets, BD stoppers) You can climb quite a bit. Throw in some hexes and a couple cams in the common sizes, and go climb.

 

check out www.rockempire.com

www.gearexpress.com

www.climbonrock.com

www.acmeclimbing.com

 

Shopping those places will let you get good retails deals on most of the products in the thread.

 

Also, get "cosmetic blem" pieces, and save money. Plus this way your gear might not be so shiny and knew, which would only further add to the "total newbie" image you'll be projecting. (it will all still be fully functional)

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don't do that...buy slings and double them up...knotted crap is a pain...sorry...a really really really expensive sewn sling is what, 7 or 8 bucks? rolleyes.gif

 

they last forever...

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knotted slings are way better than sewn slings for rapping off things, sporto boxing_smiley.gif not every climb comes with a convenient set of chains at 30m

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and why is knotted better to rap off of? cuz you're gonna leave it? that's fine then, get some sacrificial stuff...

 

and sporto? what is that for? the_finger.gif

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knotted - length can be changed, and can be tied around things

 

sewn - length cannot be changed and can only be put around trees, chockstones, etc by girthhitching which uses 2x as much sling as a knotted sling would. try equalizing two bolts and a rap ring using a sewn sling...

 

but i agree, making runners out of knoted slings is like writing a tr in cuineform on clay tablets. there is a better technology.

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I prefer sewn, but it's always good to have one or two tied slings. I never leave slings on trees for rapping. I just put the rope around the tree. At tree belays I use a bowline on a bite around the tree.

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Snowbyrd,

This gear discussion is all fine and dandy, but you've been climbing for what, 3 months now altogether? Spend more time on the rock, spend more time following and fondling other people's gear and getting to know what the options are and what you like best before shelling out the big bucks for your own rack.

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Snowbyrd,

This gear discussion is all fine and dandy, but you've been climbing for what, 3 months now altogether? Spend more time on the rock, spend more time following and fondling other people's gear and getting to know what the options are and what you like best before shelling out the big bucks for your own rack.

 

Our "father" das Bird told me differently. Its not a bad idea to start picking up pieces here and there and learning how to place them...even if its just on toprope. But I do see your point.

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Ignore all those cautious people advising you and jump into leading as quickly as you can. Darwin will apply and either you will 1) die or 2) become a good trad leader.

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don't do that...buy slings and double them up...knotted crap is a pain...sorry...a really really really expensive sewn sling is what, 7 or 8 bucks? rolleyes.gif

 

they last forever...

 

 

Tied are more versatile and cheaper.I don't really see the downside, just check your knots.

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I'd hold off on the Camalots until next month, when they're supposed to start shipping the new C4s which are 20% lighter...

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I wonder if anyone will start unloading the old ones at a semi-reasonable price when the new C4s come in....

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tri-cams - SUCK

TCU's - OK

Hexes - SUCK

Wildcountry Cams - GOOD

 

Nuts - YES

BD Camalots .5 through 3.5 - YES

Aliens blue through red - YES

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tri-cams - SUCK

TCU's - OK

Hexes - SUCK

Wildcountry Cams - GOOD

 

Nuts - YES

BD Camalots .5 through 3.5 - YES

Aliens blue through red - YES

For a beginner climber, this is a good rating. thumbs_up.gif

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