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Tiblocs and an adventure race


jitterjepp

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I would rather use a prusik. Unfortunately that is listed as "unacceptable". Apparently they are good enough for climbing but not good enough for "adventure".

Actually I'm kind of pissed about the whole thing. I don't own a pair of ascenders. I already paid for the entry fee and I find out later I have to spend $100 to go buy a freaking pair of ascenders to go up some stupid section that is probably a 50ft. 5.6 climb. I'm like...why?

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I think that you should run fast so you can get to the ropes first. And if you get there later and the ropes are sketch then you should drop brown coils on the organizers for being unsafe dumbasses. But tiblocs don't HAVE TO wreck ropes if they are used carefully. wave.gif

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dumb ass muffy question:

 

why would someone use a tiblock to "back up" a belay from the top on a multi pitch climb?? i saw some one do that and i can't figure out why. I have not climbed alot of multi, and when i have the people I climbed with just used an ATC. often they rapped with a prusick back up....

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If you're worried about Tibloc and their teeth, then you are worried about Petzl ascenders - and their teeth. If you look inside them they are the same teeth. Need to change brands to get rid of the teeth. They are pretty much the standard though.

From Petzl:

"Precautions

The TIBLOC is an emergency rope clamp/grab for

occasional use. Always check that the device jams

immediately. The rope must always be under tension.

This device is not designed to stop severe falls.

Absorption: remember that the energy of a fall is

absorbed by the rope."

 

You could use a Gri-Gri, but you'll get your ass kicked on speed. If it is vertical they should be belaying you anyhoo. Not that you need it, liability would say to tie-in and climb as fast as you can - with a belay. Check that shiznit out...

 

-B

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If you're worried about Tibloc and their teeth, then you are worried about Petzl ascenders - and their teeth.

 

I disagree. Due to the housing of the cam, the ascender does not tend to partially engage and slide (ripping the hell out of the sheath in the process) whereas the tibloc can do that if it's not fully engaged or a less than ideal carabiner (nor round cross-section) is used. I've seen tiblocs rip up ropes, but have never seen a petzl ascender do that. I would think that a bunch of inexperienced folks trying to jug ropes with tiblocs in a hurry would be a recipe for fuzzed ropes. Fuzzed ropes are still plenty strong though.

 

You would go a lot faster and more confidently with real ascenders, but tiblocs weigh nothing.

 

Muffy, I have heard of people putting tiblocs on intermediate pieces while simulclimbing to prevent a second's fall from pulling the leader off. Perhaps the guy you saw was using that principle.

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I would rather use a prusik. Unfortunately that is listed as "unacceptable". Apparently they are good enough for climbing but not good enough for "adventure".

Actually I'm kind of pissed about the whole thing. I don't own a pair of ascenders. I already paid for the entry fee and I find out later I have to spend $100 to go buy a freaking pair of ascenders to go up some stupid section that is probably a 50ft. 5.6 climb. I'm like...why?

 

If only 50 ft, 5.6 who fucking cares anyway? I've used Triblocs to ascend skinny ropes. They worked just fine.

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