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Bitterroots Questions


jordop

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Yeah there is great climbing in the B-root. But I think in the 6 yrs I climbed in them I only did one route that I'd say is actually worth the drive from Seattle. But I also wouldn't say that the approaches are any worse than the Cascades. The Cascades approaches are longer, but there's more to climb when you get there.

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I've done them both. My Mom's Muscle Shirt on Flathead is better then both of those though. Don't get me wrong, Montana is killer and Blodgett has some great climbing and is definitly worth a trip, but most people might feel that its not worth the nine/ten hr drive when the Cascades and B.C. are closer ...

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Blodgett beats any canyon I've seen in the Cascades. It is the most accessible and has the highest concentration, and has a pretty good guide book. There are other canyons with minimal approaches, say 3 or 4 miles plus a couple hundred feet of talus, that have lot's of smaller buttresses (only 3-5 pitches), better rock, and nobody goes there because Montanans are assholes. Roaring Lion is only a taste of what else is out there.

If you are willing to hump up to the divide country, you get past the gneiss and into true granite. Different stuff. The gneiss tends to be sloping and inconsistent features with some unpredictable bands in places. The divide peaks have consistent cracks and features. Excellent granite for clean alpine trad. The top of Sweathouse has only one ascent that I know of. Slot Tower 10A, 6 pitches to a great summit. It is just one of about a dozen teeth on a sawtoothed ridge. The Finger lies in waiting untouched. TinCup Creek has some 10 pitch walls that I have done one ascent on. There are at least fifty other good lines up there. No one else has touched it as far as I know. I could go on. But the Cascades are great. I like the guide books now that I am old and feeble.

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Awesome. I don't have as much experience on the other side of the crest. But the rock around trapper peak, except for Trapper itself is real nice granite. Last year's AAJ has some nice looking routes on "spirulina" tower in the Trapper area put up by my bro Jimmy Pinjub and co, 5.10 / 5.11 6-7 pitches.

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I'll love to drag some local Montana "hardmen" around the cascades and watch em weep for their mommies.

 

Bug, are you saying that I can just pick a drainage or valley and find good climbing? B.S. I proved this idea wrong this month on my slog-to-nothing-a-thon. moon.gif

No wonder you got nowhere. I give beta in a PM to anyone who doesn't flame me. I said I could list the drainages where there was good climbing. That's called beta asshole. Find the rest yourself. Ask yo momma to teach you some manners boy. pitty.gif Just stay the fuck away from the Bitterroots and quite whining. You probably can't walk far enough to reach the really good climbing anyway.

 

Hey now! I wasn't flaming you-i was chiding... Lighten up, yo. This is Jordans tantrum, not mine. He's the A-hole. Goddamn canadians aren't as polite as they first appear.

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I'll love to drag some local Montana "hardmen" around the cascades and watch em weep for their mommies.

 

Bug, are you saying that I can just pick a drainage or valley and find good climbing? B.S. I proved this idea wrong this month on my slog-to-nothing-a-thon. moon.gif

No wonder you got nowhere. I give beta in a PM to anyone who doesn't flame me. I said I could list the drainages where there was good climbing. That's called beta asshole. Find the rest yourself. Ask yo momma to teach you some manners boy. pitty.gif Just stay the fuck away from the Bitterroots and quite whining. You probably can't walk far enough to reach the really good climbing anyway.

 

Hey now! I wasn't flaming you-i was chiding... Lighten up, yo. This is Jordans tantrum, not mine. He's the A-hole. Goddamn canadians aren't as polite as they first appear.

Sorry if my openness offended you. My macho upbringing is sensitive to acusations of "weeping to my mommy."

OK the truth hurts. I'm getting old. But in my day....

Have fun in CA.

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Hey speaking of Blodgett Canyon, is that some kind of geological anomaly that there is a well formed, mostly free standing arch on the ridgeline on the south side maybe 3 or 4 miles in? That just doesn't seem to happen w/ granitic type of rock, at least not in my experience. Any geologists out there want to explain how that happened.

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Jordop is just wishing there is a guidebook not cause he wants to repeat a route but cause he wants to do one of those Layton Style 5.10bXR "first ascent" thingys and ifn he finds a soft iron pin on the 9th pitch his day will be ruined and his plans for chest thumpin in the AAJ will be defeated.

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Jordop is just wishing there is a guidebook not cause he wants to repeat a route but cause he wants to do one of those Layton Style 5.10bXR "first ascent" thingys and ifn he finds a soft iron pin on the 9th pitch his day will be ruined and his plans for chest thumpin in the AAJ will be defeated.

 

what's with the whole grade IV in the lower 48 in the aaj thing anyhoo? seems out of place

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