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Smiff Bolt Wrecker


ivan

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I hope you're kidding about that gumby thing Shapp. If not, then it seems like a real rude and uncalled for thing to say.

 

I not only don't see it that way, I appreciate them sharing that the bolt is gone, and I like reading how it happened. That route gets done frequently by begineer to expert. It's a hell of a lot better hearing about it now than showing up to do the route....sans stick....and going .........f* as you look up.

 

Maybe it was just a humor thing that I just missed, if so, sorry. blush.gif

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No kidding around bill, most every time I have done that route, which is many many times, over the last 15 years there has been a missing bolt someplace. Deal with it. Either go back up and replace it or leave it missing to add a little more challenge. Any one who doesn't through a machine bolt and a hook in their pocket when going out to a bolt ladder might just need a lesson and might find them selves backing off. So I see it as a favor not to make a big deal out of it, so maybe a few gumbies learn how to deal with a missing bolt or two. "Oh please please hold my hand and put up a big ass red stop sign at the base of every route warning people that not all of the holds or bolts may be the same as they were yesterday!" On another note, have you ever noticed how lame the oregon secion of this BB is, and this is coming from a born and raised Oregonian.

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Oh I forgot, excluding posts by Dr. Flash Amazing. Can someone please post some TRs for example: Barad Dur, some thing crazy around the Monument, I know someone must be doing something interesting in the Wallowas (maybe repeat that multipitch rock route that S. House did many years ago), can we get some ice climbers to go out above Strawberry Lake?, I know it is in Idaho (just over the river though) can someone please go out and climb some of the newer long mixed multipitch stuff in Hells canyon and post a TR, can someone please go climb something other than the Pioneer route and give us an exciting TR. My ankle has been screwed up all summer and I need something interesting to read about routes in Oregon.

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Actually, Hells Canyon and the Wallowas are about as far from Portland as Washington Pass.

 

That being said, I've climbed in both places and had a good time. Posting a TR about clipping bolts on the limestone of Hells Canyon is about as exciting as posting a gym TR. Its been quite a few years since I climbed in Hells Canyon though and I am sure a lot of new development has occurred. I do plan on getting back to the Wallowas this winter for some ice climbing though.

 

Sorry we can't assuage your elitist desires there Shapp, we can't all be as badass as yourself. Speaking of, where's your TRs? Is your first name Dave by chance?

 

Hope your ankle heals well and you can start getting on it so we can read of your exploits.

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No kidding around bill, most every time I have done that route, which is many many times, over the last 15 years there has been a missing bolt someplace. Deal with it. Either go back up and replace it or leave it missing to add a little more challenge. Any one who doesn't through a machine bolt and a hook in their pocket when going out to a bolt ladder might just need a lesson and might find them selves backing off. So I see it as a favor not to make a big deal out of it, so maybe a few gumbies learn how to deal with a missing bolt or two.

 

Instead of being a prick and posting a deragatory comment, perhaps you could have just said, "a missing bolt on that route is a common occurence... I deal with it by X, Y, and Z".

 

However, I understand you're frustrated by your injured ankle and the arrival of spray season, so FLAME ON!!!

 

wave.gif

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rbw1966, if you have climbed in Hells then you should know there is a lot more to be had than mere short sporto bolt clipping. There are several large walls and probably more climbable rock than Smith (which aint saying too much).

 

b-rock, takes longer to drive to from where?

 

Alpinefox, you may have a point.

 

I don't claim to be a hard man, but I know some of you Oregonian are climbing some interesting shit. The point is we don't see it on this board as much as with the WA areas. I would merely like to see something else besides Mt. Washington, Sisters, hood or smith cause I know there is some shit to be had out there.

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I don't claim to be a hard man, but I know some of you Oregonian are climbing some interesting shit. The point is we don't see it on this board as much as with the WA areas. I would merely like to see something else besides Mt. Washington, Sisters, hood or smith cause I know there is some shit to be had out there.

 

 

Got ya: so to clarify cause I want to get the new rules right the first time: you are saying that we are not to post anything which will incure your ire and distain?

 

Would it be possible if us lame Oregonians can PM you with our TR's of what we consider interesting update posts so you can advise us BEFORE we make fools of ourselves in your eyes?

 

I'm sure I speak for everyone that we all feel bad about all this and wish none of it had happened.

 

 

___________________________________________________

We may be lame weak bolt clipping pussies, but we're Oregonians by God........

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I'm sure I speak for everyone that we all feel bad about all this and wish none of it had happened.

 

I personally feel terrible...

 

Shapp, check your email for my TR on my free solo of the Turkey Monster. If you like it I'll post it in the new Oregon Hardman forum.

 

But only if you like it!

 

Dan - sorry, too far away, do something closer to Portland.

 

 

Yup, most exciting thing around here is while back: someone fell outta a Mobile home I heard. Didn't hear if it wuz one o them big MF'ers or what.

 

The hardmen are all out climbing, leaving us Posers to hold down the board. crazy.gif

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Well, well, looks like the Oregon forum's abuzz with spray again. I really enjoy it when animosity comes out of the keyboard. Anyway I am allowed to post on missing bolts because I am an ex-Texan. If you don't like it I'll get my fellow texan, GW, to exile you to guantanamo bay as a terrorist.

 

I pulled a bolt out of the bolt ladder on M-face a few years ago too. It is pretty common and that rock is even crappier than most of the smith tuff. Oh, and Ivan, all I can say is if you plan on doing any C2F in the valley -bring your hammer and alot of extra copperheads.

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