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TJD

Guiding Restless Native

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Paying people to take them up mountains, what an adventure! hellno3d.gif

 

<note: I'm splitting off this separate discussion, in case someone wants to discuss guiding while someone else is actually interested in Restless Native.>

Edited by mattp

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Paying people to take them up mountains, what an adventure! hellno3d.gif

 

I am sure you have given a lot of thought to your comment and that every single time you go climbing it is an adventure.

Believe it or not: Not everyone is looking for an adventure when they climb or hire a guide to climb with. Perhaps they are looking to improve their skills. Perhaps they are looking to climb a route that they other wise would not be comfortable leading for the pure joy of the experience. Perhaps they are in need of a competant partner and don't have time to play the dating game. There are many reasons why people climb and many reasons why they hire a guide.

 

Scott Johnston

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I am sorry I can not buy your story. I am not going to defend my mountaining skills to no one it is me that counts. There is big world of mountaining out there. Selling mugs and t- shirts does not impress me. You do it your way and stay in your little part of the world. I will venture out and experience life, Although my wife and I have slowed with our son . Good Luck. Hope you find a partner that has been as good as my wife.

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So you'll never be a client TJD, big deal. Who exactly are you sneering at, people who work hard at trying to make a living doing what they love, or those who for whatever reasons (and Scott's right, there are a lot of different reasons) hire someone with the experience and training to help them do what they want? I've known a few guides, they've been people of great integrity and patience, and I've known a few folks who've been clients, and they're good people too. You, I don't know about.

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I found Scott and his company to be quite pleasant and professional. We slept in, drove to the pass, bailed with the weather, and ended up behind Scott, et al.

 

As I recollect, they were climbing the first few pitches so that his clients could safely practice jugging. Snooze, you loose, my loss.

 

Sysiphus, as I understand it, was initially put up so that Scott could have an easy route to guide, away from other climbers at the pass, but turned out to be harder than expected. He also put up a "Guide's Route" on the way up the pass (memory fails me as to which outcrop it's on), another option for getting guides/clients away from the masses.

 

If only MORE guides behaved in a similar professional, polite, and conscientious fashion.

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Hey Scott--

 

Were you in Boston Basin over Labor Day Weekend? Is so, we spoke about Sysiphus. Nice to talk to you and thanks for the beta.

 

Rob

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TJD;

I have to confess to being pretty confused by your posts and I am not sure what part of my "story " you don't buy. The part where there may be alternative motivations than your own for people to hire a guide or seek instruction?

I don't think I ever impuned your "mountaining" skills. Seems like you and I completely agree that it is the individual's experience that counts in climbing. One person's adventure can easily be another's walk in the park.

And by the way; we don't sell the mugs and t-shirts, we give them away.

 

Spliffy:

You are right; we were doing some jugging/big wall logistics instruction that day on Sisyphus. More a skills thing that an adverture to be sure.

Larry and I did originally set out to bolt Sisyphus as a long moderate route that the guides and others could use when weather at WA pass didn't allow climbing up there. It turned out to be a bit harder than planned but we have climbed it with stronger clients and all have enjoyed it.

The "guide route" (Sponenaity Arete) you refer to is on le Petit Cheval just W of Blackhorse Point at the mouth of Willow Ck (ref. Burdo). Park at mp165 on hwy 20 to find the trail. The topo is available on the www.ncmountainguides.com web site. I also posted it as a TR earlier this summer. It is a worthy moderate route and avoids the jam ups on the popular routes at the pass. We have guided it but it is by no means private property.

 

rbw1966;

Yes we spoke in BB on Labor Day w.e. Hope you found some dryness later and that the beta helped. Nice to meet you. Ever notice how you meet the nicest folks in the mountains?

 

Scott

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Yes we spoke in BB on Labor Day w.e.

 

Were you one the two big rope teams on the Quien Sabe Glacier Saturday?

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hey scott,

 

i tried the link on the ncmg site to get the topo to the route on le petit cheval but the link didnt work. do you know where i could find a copy, or is there another link that works?

 

thanks!

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Were you one the two big rope teams on the Quien Sabe Glacier Saturday?

 

No, I was with one person. The big group(s) was an AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Alpine Guides 10 day training course.

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hey scott,

 

i tried the link on the ncmg site to get the topo to the route on le petit cheval but the link didnt work. do you know where i could find a copy, or is there another link that works?

 

thanks!

 

Miller;

You are right. I just tried to look at the topo on the NCMG site and couldn't. I'll have to have our webmistress check it out. In the meantime: I posted a TR on this route in the N Cascades TR section earlier this summer. Cn't recall when but I would think you could search that forum. Hope that helps.

Scott

under the name le Petit Cheval or Spontenaity Arete.

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I am sorry but I just see you turning climbing into a game of foot ball. The best times of my life were when I climbed,trecked and was dirt poor. I made over 500 trecks and climbs and maybe ten % were special. but I would not take back any of them. My family now comes first,one son climbs like I never could. The other is scared of a six foot ladder but a good football player and snow boarder. I know you are climbers and good ones. I just do not think the Northwest warrents the climbing attention this boards it offer,and being good climbers you will think I am an old foggy full of @#%$&%$*$&&*> .Please do not take offence these are my thoughts.

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Wow that hurt. Have not had a drink in 11 years and never drank much. You must be a retired therapist or guide.

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Not trying to be hurtful, sorry. You gotta admit, that last post WAS a little dis-jointed...

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I think TJD's native language is Incomprehensible, cause he speaks it fluently.

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I hope TJD doesn't tudor his sons in English!!!! yellaf.gif

 

Uh, Ryland, was that the pun was intentional..?

 

(tudor vs. tutor)

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I hope TJD doesn't tutor his sons in England...in a tudor.

 

Seriously, what do you mean by "I just do not think the Northwest warrents the climbing attention this boards it offer..." Aren't our cascade jewels worthy of attention?

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You insult me and my iteligence.You call me a drunk engineer. There is no doubt I do not sweat the small stuff. But remember if any of you are sitting in a coushy chair writing posts in a building. It was my education and hard work that make buildings more safe in an earthquake. And the the work continues for upper impacts. I am not retired. But I doubt any of you can think past cascadeclimbers.com. Good climbinng be safe, and I still do not like guides. Sorry I do not drink.

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