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mr.radon

[TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004

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The rap anchors are now all back in full multi-sling multi-rap-ring glory, in case anyone cares.

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There were four (count em' FOUR) rappel rings on the anchor in question, along with three brand new slings. I took one of the slings and two of the rings, leaving a perfectly sound anchor, which we used ourselves.

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I was under the impression that two rap rings was the norm. When we climbed Ingalls Peak (North Peak, South Ridge) all the anchors but one had three rings and way too many slings. Overkill? Safety in numbers syndrome?

 

drC

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They cost $15.00 or so, but when I've set out to establish a rap station on a popular climb that I wanted to be extra strong, I've used large stainless steel rings that are sold in yachting stores, about 2x or 3x the diameter of a rap ring, with a breaking strength of something like 18,000 pounds. This way there is still room for the rope when people stuff 25 slings through them.

 

It always amazes me to see where someone then added a slightly longer runner and a standard sized rap ring carefully being sure it would equalize the big one.

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I was under the impression that two rap rings was the norm.

 

Yes, two is the norm. If you place more than that, a booty alert siren goes off in the headquarters of the Argentinian Climbing Club and they send up a flourescent lycra-clad delegation to collect their prize.

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They cost $15.00 or so, but when I've set out to establish a rap station on a popular climb that I wanted to be extra strong, I've used large stainless steel rings that are sold in yachting stores, about 2x or 3x the diameter of a rap ring, with a breaking strength of something like 18,000 pounds. This way there is still room for the rope when people stuff 25 slings through them.

 

It always amazes me to see where someone then added a slightly longer runner and a standard sized rap ring carefully being sure it would equalize the big one.

 

news for you - it would be cheaper to use chains than the big expensive ring. also that way there would be no webbing for snaffles to chew on. wave.gif

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I think 1 ring is enough. Why use 2? I could see them wearing from rope pulls but just how heavy are the people rapping on these things?

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I'd think people leave 2 rings for two reasons:

 

- Bigger radius for the rope to go through, thus nicer on the rope.

- Some redundancy (though I haven't seen a damaged ring).

 

Whoever climbs Ingalls Peak's North Peak next, there's a lot of extra rap rings to booty off South Ridge, then; please just don't wear Lycra wink.gif

 

drC

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- Some redundancy (though I haven't seen a damaged ring).

 

Better back up your belay loop then, and the rope. SMC Al rap rings are rated to 16kN.

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Yes, they do wear. I would not thread my rope through that. The fact that it continued to hold should tell you how overkill two rap rings are.

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I don't understand one part--if it really is a mandatory rappel which requires a fixed anchor...how did that party manage to cut all the webbing and still get down??

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There is an easy down climb of which most parties avail themselves. The rappel in question is a double rope, low angle one down a dirty gully. I watched Buckeroo down climb it.

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