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[TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004


mr.radon

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Climb: The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!-Easy Route

 

Date of Climb: 9/6/2004

 

Trip Report:

REPOST per admin request...

All right I go to take a novice out to the Tooth.

We left late to avoid the crowds. There was a party of two coming off and a party of three. No problem. I saw the party of two rap the gully were the climb starts. And I remeber checking out the rap sling there. Two pretty new slings were on the first rap, two that were so-so and one that was a little iffy. Half way up the party of three rap's past us, no big deal. They were here from South America (Argentian) on a month long vacation. They are total TOOLS!!!!

I saw them hike out the way you come in thinking why did they do that?

Well we rap off the summit and go set the rap for the gully. They cut all the slings! Even the two good ones that were like brand new. They also took the rap rings??? WTF???? There were two rap rings and they took them. They better not run into me again while they are out here. I can see pulling skank slings but to cut every single sling take the rings and leave the slings is uncalled for. The slings weren't even stuck they just didn't even bother to haul them out.

I wrapped a cord around the anchor and added two sling pieces so I could rap off the gully, it was getting late and this was much faster. If anyone heads up there bring a rap ring or two and some webbing. I wish I had gotten there names. Two Americans and there Argentian girlfriend.

Does anyone just cut a rap anchor even if all the slings are bad? I figure leave it so the rap rings stay, cut off the skank one(s) and add a new sling or just leave it alone.......

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I think it sounds like they are talking about the gulley to the northeast of pineapple pass which is not necessary to rappel. You can downclimb it or even walk around. Even if they did rappel off blocks - I think for the most part removing the stuff might be doing us a favor since it's just as fast to walk around.

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I think it sounds like they are talking about the gulley to the northeast of pineapple pass which is not necessary to rappel.

 

Nope, not that - rap anchors higher up on the route.

 

I was there with enem, we weren't exactly impressed with that party of three.

 

They dislodged a cantelope-sized rock when throwing rap ropes, it missed us by a yard or two. This was completely unnecessary, a wait of another 3-5 minutes would have had us clear out of the way.

 

We also watched them cut the anchors, although we thought they were just replacing old slings. But... the slings were in fine shape, I had just checked them before rapping.

 

So, yup, I think those guys are total tools. There were plenty of inexperienced folks there that day - one party had an anchor consisting of a dead tree clipped to a gear loop - but those guys had well worn gear and knew how to use it. No excuse, just bad style and lousy ethics. Feel free to move this thread to spray too, whatever grin.gif

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so the cut a rap anchor, not ethnics I think anyone here agrees with but it is an alpine climb so you should be prepared to make your own rap anchor, no?

 

As Arnold says "Stop Whining"

 

Oh, I normally carry a roll of about nine dozen new rap rings, but you don't need any new webbing because you can just tie back together the tat left over when the previous set of rap rings was nicked. It's also very handy to have that stuff in place because it helps finding the location for your new anchor.

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Someone asked me to make it clear what happened:

1) They cut the five slings that were around a large chockstone.

2) They then salvaged the rap rings (2)

3) They left the five cut slings, which were loose around the chockstone, none were wedged in.

So my greivance was not only did they cut the slings and take the rings but left the trash for me to haul out!

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  • 3 weeks later...

bring up your rockpecker and put some chains in on that sport climb. take the good slings and tie a water knot. at least they left the slings so you could find the anchor. although THat is shitty. the moral of the story is that argentinians should pick up their trash. do you need our validation to tell you this?

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