Stuart/Cascadian Couloir

[IMAM]

Has anyone been up this route recently (past couple of weeks)? Is there any snow fields left on the upper mountain? How would this be for a 1-dayer? Thanks in advance.

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Does it have many bolts on it?

[Warped_Ward]

I climbed the NR of Stuart two weeks ago then descended the Cascadian. In my opinion I would avoid climbing the Cascadian it at all costs! Climbing the NR of Stuart is a "10", but having to descend the Cascadian reduces the overall appeal to a "7".

There is still some snow at the top of the Cascadian but it's easy to avoid. I descended the entire route in running shoes in 2 hours and 15 minutes. The Cascadian is VERY loose and sandy.

From the bottom of the Cascadian to the top of Longs pass is 1 hour. Then from the top of Longs pass to the car is one more hour.

Another Stuart option to check out that I've heard is solo-able is the West Ridge. You'd still have to descend the Cascadian but at least the ascent would be nice.

[nolanr]

Very doable in a day, I just did it last weekend. I vastly overestimated how long it would take, left the car at 5 am, on the summit about 10 am. The coulouir is pretty crappy, but as you near the false summit it gets better. I topped out so early I hung out there for a couple hours, then took the roundabout way back to the car via Ingalls Lake and Ingalls Pass.

[Goat_Boy]

quote:

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Another Stuart option to check out that I've heard is solo-able is the West Ridge.

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Not for everyone. It's not that the climbing is particularly difficult, but I've seen parties get off route above LJ Tower and spend a fair amount of time flopping around getting back to a decent line. If you make that mistake solo, you could be seriously effed. It's a good leap up from a coulior route.

[mtngrrrl]

I have to chime in here... in agreement for avoiding the Cascadian Couloir. We did it last year, shortly after moving to the area. While summiting Stuart was nice, the CC has become our benchmark by which to compare all crappy slag piles. "Well, however unpleasant this might be, it's not worse than the Cascadian Couloir!" always elicits a guffaw and a few minutes of ranting about how horrible that route was.

 

On the other hand, the summit area is cool with nice big boulders to negotiate once the scree fades away. The scree, however, makes up most of the route.

 

Ugh. Ugh again!!

[Crack]

if you can make it up the north ridge, you'll be able to descend the west ridge just fine -and get yourself back to the lake much quicker, bagging another fine route...that couloir sucks ass.