jkrueger Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 I've been working on my ticklist of trad 10a's to do at Smith: Cruel Sister Delirium Tremens Karate Crack And there are more in the Gorge... Let me know anytime you want a partner for a Smith Rock trad trip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 delirum is my fav smith single pitch route. good rock and cool moves..... i would say sketch is leave the a,b,c & d out of it and go for .10s in general. the letter value is only a point of micro managing the sport. .10a's at index tend to be more difficult then .10b or .10c.....go figure have fun man!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Angel Crack -Castle Rock Delerium Tremens - Smith Meat Grinder - Alphabet Rock, icicle Exasperator p1 - Squamish base of the Grand Seasoned in the Sun - ditto The Zip - Squamish Smoke Bluffs Gruff in the Smith Gorge is a good one if Cruel Sis is busy. Ditto Wildfire. Grassy Glades at Skaha. Nothing at Index cause it always rains there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 22, 2002 Author Share Posted August 22, 2002 Erik, I agree about the a,b,c thing, I tend to get more worked up when I think I'm leading something specific rather than just walking up to a line and climbing it because I like the looks of it. Not to mention the inconsistancies(sp) of the ratings. JK, there's a group of us heading over the weekend after Labor day Sept. 7-8, come on over, would love to hook up with the gang from Eugene, less crowds the weekend after school starts. (generally) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Dru, You forgot Flying Circus at Squamish. True it's gotten a little slick from all of the traffic. But you bring your largest hex to beat everybody else out of the way so you can get up it. "Away you crowds or else I'll call the A-Team !!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 I'm suprised noone has said it yet, GO DO "BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS" Solid 10a, perfect hands, cool exposure, pump factor and solid pro the whole way! Great climb! My favorite way to do it is to make one short pitch from the grounsd to the chains on Rogers Corner, then link the second pitch of Rogers with Breakfast. Clip the slings on the tree and keep going. If you are smart about your pro you can do this with one set of cams. Take up to #3 camolot, maybe 2 #1's and #2's if you like to sew it up. The fall is totaly clean. Also with two 60m ropes you can do one long spacy rap to the deck, very cool added bonus. Becarefull, as I have experienced rock fall from the top in that area. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 rogers corner blows.... do the lizrd route and travers in from the top of the slab....more solid rock, more vaired climbing. breakfast is good..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Flying Circus is a slick piece of dung. It used to be good 10 yrs ago but took too much beating from endless top ropes. On the other hand "Neat & Cool" itself is a wicked 10a but maybe not good for breaking into the grade as people seem to take ugly groundfalls on it more than about any other climb at Squamish. I remember when it had 4 fixed pins, over the years they've all come out as people fell on them oops! Now just nuts and cams And Talking Holds is good... short overhanging perfect hands 10a. Also Jabberwocky, crux is boulder problemy start then 5.9 fingers above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: rogers corner blows.... do the lizrd route and travers in from the top of the slab....more solid rock, more vaired climbing. breakfast is good..... oh come on now, so you have to deal with a couple of moves on choss, but then you stem up that sweet verticle corner with cool jams. Roger's kicks ass, two thumbs up. Not all the rock at Index has to be perfect, it's even got the ancient rusty 1/4 incher for added ambiance, I allways clip it just for fun! Still havent done Lizard, but I will havta try that recomended variation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 first three pitches of Davis Holland (i believe the name's Upper Town Wall) at Index: 9, 10a, 10c (this last one somewhat soft relative to most Index ratings). Or link GM to an upper pitch (10a/b) of Heart of the Country at the Country, Index. Def. concur w/ the above rec's for Angel, Breakfast, Exasperator. On this last you'll have difficulty not continuing for the sweet 10 second pitch. enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Yeah, second pitch of DH is full on 10a, another pumpy corner with cool stemming and bomber jams! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Try Zebra Zion at smith. There is only one small section of 10a and the last pitch (5.8?) is one of the best around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 22, 2002 Share Posted August 22, 2002 Another good 10a at Smoke Bluffs is Nubile Woman. It is pretty short and was my first 10a lead I believe. Take some RPs for the last few moves, which are (you guessed it) the CRUX! Also, Fist at Murrin is good , crux is a boulder start again then solid 5.9 which always reminds me a bit of the Outer Space crux (ie you are climbing up a diagonal crack which you have your feet in and you have to switch to hand traversing it as you move right around a little bulgy roof thing) Actually I did OS so long ago I cant even remember if the crux is really like that or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 Been working all summer getting ready to send some trad .10A's. Looking for input on the some of the best around (Oregon & WA) that are legit .10's. Any info on route name and location would be ssswweeet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Smith has two awesome 10a's that seem to go forgotten. Bring your "A" game on these. -Paper Tiger, Red Wall Area. -Trezlar, Mesa Verde. They're always open and a wild ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 I know JK asked about TRAD leads, so this is technically thread drift, but I like Screaming Yellow Zonkers at Smith. Bolted. 10b, I think....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Trexlar is a good climb if I can remember it. Don't some larger cams come in handy? Is that off to the left of Minas Morgol? (sp?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MATT_B Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Some other good smith tuft cracks are Pack animal direct 10b, Calamity Jam 10c, Infinity direct 10a and I think one or two more cracks if I remember correctly. Karati crack is just around the corner. They are all right next to each other and didn't get much traffic when I did them. I have not been in that area in a while but I have heard that some one put a bunch of sport routes up between the cracks so you may find the usual smith cluster f* there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Thinker: I know JK asked about TRAD leads, so this is technically thread drift, but I like Screaming Yellow Zonkers at Smith. Bolted. 10b, I think....... Who in their right mind (besides DFA, of course) would go to Smith to sport climb? OK, I admit that I am working on a ticklist of 5.10 sport routes to do at Smith as well: Screaming Yellow Zonkers BBQ the Pope Wedding Day Bring on the thread creep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Phoenix, .10, bolts the one right next to Phoenix on the right, .10, bolts fun but painful rock over there on the buttress. maybe you've done these already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 tale of two shittes is good too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 Both routes on Phoenix are fun. Nice little crux on Phoenix and the run out on the one to the right is in a nice position when you look back at the river. As long as we are creeping to bolts, there's an .11-something on Phoenix, I can't remeber the name, but it;s the last climb on the climbers left. Nearly the whole climb is shallow two finger pockets and of course one of my all time favorites "Ring of Fire" .11D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 Glad to see someone else thought that one on the right was a little runout Are you talking about License to Bolt? That's 5.11 on the left of Phoenix. [ 08-23-2002, 10:43 AM: Message edited by: iain ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketchfest Posted August 23, 2002 Author Share Posted August 23, 2002 No, further to the left, it's the last climb on the wall, I think it's in the supplement, it's just to the left of "hissing lamas" 5.8 - at least I think that the climb it's next to. Anyway, the climb is a steep face climb with all these shallow one and two finger pockets that finally round out, right, onto a short arete, then back left more thin fingers up to the chains. It's not that long but it's burly fingers and delicate feet. A good tester. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted August 23, 2002 Share Posted August 23, 2002 What about the first pitch of Sagittarius at Index? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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