Spliffy Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 I'm thinking of switching from one 70m x 9.2mm to one 140m x 8.1mm for longer alpine routes. Climb with it doubled up, huge rap advantage. THought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 are these beal ice lines by the meter? Where are you finding them?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 make your partner carry 140m of 8.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 70's too long in the first place in my opinion. What are the advantages of having a full 140 anyway? One disadvantage I can think of is that it would be a pain in the ass to carry and you can't split it up b/w partners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
payaso Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Have fun coiling it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 It would be a bitch at a rap station sorting through miles of the same-colored skinny rope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle OH SHIT!!! I FOUND A KNOT!!!! untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle OH SHIT!!! I FOUND A KNOT!!!! untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle OH SHIT!!! I FOUND A KNOT!!!! untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle untangle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 on the other hand if you get a core shot 30m from one end you can still salvage a 110m rope out of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rad Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 You'd get a killer workout from dragging that slender anaconda through a few pieces of pro, but that's easily solved, just don't place pro...then you could fall 280m before shockloading the belay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Shockloading? Don't you mean bungy jumping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 Simon Richardson, an alpinist of respectable credentials and experience, tells me he has gone back to 50s for alpine routes. he notes (obviously, but strangely overlooked in these days of "light is right") that longer ropes are heavier, and that because of the broken terrain one often encounters in the mountains, they are TOO long for most "comfortable" pitches - especially when u want decent communications between partners. not everyone has the moxie to go against the grain, eh? cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stemalot Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 140m rope? I am thinking about carrying a 60 m x 8.1 mm and use it as a double rope for 30 meters! This of course depends on the type of terrain one is on. I say go light! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spliffy Posted September 3, 2004 Author Share Posted September 3, 2004 You lead on the rope doubled up, then simul when it's all paid out. The leader carries a double rack. You can link pitches together like mad. 70-->50m rappels, and you don't need to bring any tat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 You can't simul on 70m. Â It'll be a bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 a double rack, hahahahaha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 i just saw a spool today that was 120m, i definitely would not want to lug that think around. Â why not just use double ropes? as for rapping it is not too hard to tie knots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 I'm not sure but it kinda seems like cascade descents often don' t involve tons of rapping? And if you are bailing in fickle weather, it seems like we do much more downclimbing then rapping? Any thoughts? ---- I've also gone back to a 50m for many alpine routes.-- I recently used a 46m 9.4mm on a day climb of Girth Pillar and thought it was the shit. Also it seems like you can get 50's for really cheap?. I think perhaps the way to go with ropes is to buy cheap and buy often? Anyone have any thoughts? Â I've seen French climbers use single 100m 8mm duodess cords. I wonder if they like em'? Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 had to simul 5m on a 65m pitch today, would have been 15m simuling or a very shitty intermediate belay at 35m with 50s, i'll take the 60 thanks could have done it without simul with a 70. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dryad Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 Similar earlier discussion here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 Sometimes people buy things and try to convince themselves later on that it was a good deal or investment. I am guilty of it sometimes too. I think a 140 meter rope could fall into this category. There are better advantages in my opinion to having 2 ropes of each 70m as opposed to one 140m. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted September 7, 2004 Share Posted September 7, 2004 I climbed on twin 50s for a couple decades. Now I have a 60 that is really nice. When it wears out, I will get another 60 but only because there are so many people using them and the anchors are getting spaced that way. I would rather have twin 8.8's at 50 for efficiency though. I have not ever had a problem getting up or getting down. But that was doing 1st ascents in remote places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 Why do you use twins that are so fat? They sound more like half-ropes at that diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bug Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 For belaying two partners and more importantly, so I can prussick on them without having to do the Clint Eastwood shoelace thing. Another advantage is the overall wear & tear that they will take. I have only retired one 9mm or 8.8 in 20 years due to sheath wear. All the others were retired due to age and/or leader-falls. I do have a 7mm X 60m now for those days when I solo and want to rap off but it does not see much use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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