murr Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Anyone been up this season? Any idea if there's any snow left in the gully? Any idea what the climb should be rated now without the ledge? Inquiring minds want to know.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 What happened to the ledge? I don't think that gully is ever completely snow free. I've been there in August and October (different years) and encountered snow both times. You can bypass the steep snow by climbing the rock on climbers left. Did it last year with my wife and was a nice day trip. The 5.4 rating seemed accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 (edited) The upper pitch is about 5.4. The "ledge" approach pitch is low 5th, then 3rd class. There is still a ledge (as of last month anyway)... there is a "missing chunk", but it's probably been missing since well before people ever climbed the Spire. You climb up and around the "missing chunk". Good luck with the approach gully! btw, I recommend doing what Jim Nelson says, and downclimbing the approach pitch instead of rapping off loose stuff - it's very easy going backwards, you'll see. Oh, more beta: on the talus field below the approach gully, stay to the right on the bigger blocks - they are nice and stable and almost slabby, compared to the dirt/scree on the left. Edited September 2, 2004 by philfort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 I went in June when there was still nice snow all the way up to and through the gully from Glacier Basin. I have no idea what it's like now, but it's almost certain there is snow in the gully. The ledge that Beckey mentioned isn't a problem. There is one move into the wide crack that can be more difficult for shorter people. Bring a Metolius 10 or a Camalot 3.5 for that move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murr Posted September 2, 2004 Author Share Posted September 2, 2004 Thanks for the updates...a cc post from 2003 mentioned that a ledge had broken off, making the climb much tougher. Sounds like that was bum beta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sverdina Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Last September... Gully - no axe or 'pons needed. "Ledge" - still there. Good description in the CAG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Murr I was up there in May and we didn't need crampons. Depending on what level you climb at, it is pretty easy, and not much for pro. Either solo it, or bring 4 or five cams (1-2.5 inches), I think I placed 5 peices on the whole thing. I don't know about what ledge you were talking about it still went at what felt like 5.4 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murr Posted September 2, 2004 Author Share Posted September 2, 2004 Last question......on the raps......50m or 60m? I'm tying to my girlfriend up to speed enjoying alpine climbs so, the smoother I can make her initial climbs...the more lovin' I'm going to see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philfort Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 (edited) I'm tying my girlfriend up ...the more lovin' I'm going to see! Crampons (aluminum was fine) were pretty helpful in the gully back in July when we did it. The snow was hard in spots. It may be melted out enough now that you can go in the moat, like Sergio impled. 50m is fine. There's a rap station part way down the top pitch (so two short raps). Actually, this excellent shot is all the beta (butta?) you need: Edited September 2, 2004 by philfort Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murr Posted September 2, 2004 Author Share Posted September 2, 2004 Kudo's on my typo....thanks for the feedback everyone...been climbing for a while in the area and always peruse cc for fresh beta but, I never post. BTW, sverdina...were you the one that I ran into on Liberty Bell a month ago..i think you had a bottle of wine on the summit and you'd just solo'd North Face of Concord? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sverdina Posted September 2, 2004 Share Posted September 2, 2004 Bottle of wine?? Ha ha! Very cool. Nah, sorry. Can't say that was me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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