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Dave_Schuldt

What did you do this weekend?

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Saturday - my first visit to Safeco Field

 

Sunday - North Ridge Columbia Peak.

 

Excellent weather both days! Can't understand how all you guys got so wet?! pitty.gif

 

267ridge2-med.jpg

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I did a solo Tooth to Chair Pk traverse Sunday. More work than I was expecting. Although the weather was fine, everything else was drenching wet till afternoon when I was nearly done. I had wet feet and drenched clothes most of the day - all from vegetation. The various descents on the damp lichen rock were spicy, as were the steep grass and heather. Saw no other parties until Chair, where I saw 3 parties.

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Colchuck -Balanced-(wet) Rock . Friggin killer route! even when cruxes are soaked.

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Hiked up Ruby Mountain in the rain. Camped on summit.

Kam got his August turns, yoyo-ing twice a 50-ft-vert snowpatch.

 

augustturns.jpg

 

Crazy clouds in the morning.

 

forbidden2.jpg

 

bwclouds.jpg

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Went into Olympus on Friday with Chica, MaryK, Pete_A, and another friend from Jackson. Hiked into Glacier Meadows Friday, climbed Saturday but turned around in a complete whiteout, rain, and wind at Snow Dome, then hiked back to the Rangver Station at 9 mile, then hiked the remaining nine miles out Sunday morning. Lot of hiking. I feel we covered alot of distance in the park, but saw very little of the park. Also, anyone know about a huge section of the Blue Glacier collapsing and filling the Hoh River with a large amount of silt? Locals said it has never been this silty this time of year and has been running like that for a few weeks because, "the glacier fell down." rolleyes.gif

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desert splitters and towers for 6 days straight only to find out i am not leaving for my work again till after laborday. so, daily granite till then. every day has been sunny and high 70, low 80's. bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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desert splitters and towers for 6 days straight only to find out i am not leaving for my work again till after laborday. so, daily granite till then. every day has been sunny and high 70, low 80's. bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

 

You mormons have all the luck hahaha.gif

 

wave.gif

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After climbing and drinking a lot with Snowbyrd and company, Hillweasel and I went to Index on Sunday afternoon and climbed GNS and a nice hand crack next to it. This was my first time at Index. Woo hoo! laugh.gif

 

The nice handcrack to the right of twin cracks is Pisces, 5.6. I remember the first time I climbed it I liked it so much I had to go climb it again right then and there.

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After climbing and drinking a lot with Snowbyrd and company, Hillweasel and I went to Index on Sunday afternoon and climbed GNS and a nice hand crack next to it. This was my first time at Index. Woo hoo! laugh.gif

 

The nice handcrack to the right of twin cracks is Pisces, 5.6. I remember the first time I climbed it I liked it so much I had to go climb it again right then and there.

 

Oh man, my first time on that crack I didn't even know what a foot jam was, or how to do a hand jam for that matter. And I was on lead. I somehow barely managed to pull my 5.10 sporto ass up the thing... hellno3d.gif (of course I suck much less now rolleyes.gif)

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Spent Sat. pullin tuff at Smith in perfect weather, and the emptiest I've ever seen it. I'd swear the place was being evacuated.

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After climbing and drinking a lot with Snowbyrd and company, Hillweasel and I went to Index on Sunday afternoon and climbed GNS and a nice hand crack next to it. This was my first time at Index. Woo hoo! laugh.gif

 

The nice handcrack to the right of twin cracks is Pisces, 5.6. I remember the first time I climbed it I liked it so much I had to go climb it again right then and there.

Hmmm... HW told me that crack was 5.8, which seemed a little suspect. I guess I should appreciate that he was trying to boost my ego and make me feel like a badass. yellaf.giftongue.gif

Well, it was a mighty sweet crack regardless. smile.gif

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Took my 2 teenage boys and 3 other friends that like scrambling up to Black Peak. Started out in the fog and light drizzle, more drizzle when setting up camp at Wing Lake. Could see the look in their faces of "what is dad doing taking us out in the rain, this sucks!". Woke up Sunday morning to heavy fog, sat around, just about decided to pack up and head out when the fog began to lift. About 8:30 headed out, became a beautiful day, gorgeous views, could see very clearly the NE Buttress of Goode that we had climbed in July, had a great time.

 

Black Peak is a great route to take newbies who can scramble, nice approach, lakes, good views, whets the appetite for the North Cascades. rockband.gif

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So that's where CBS was. First you talk us into going then dissapear on us! tongue.gif I was a little curious while Snowbyrd was cursing my name halfway up Givlers! Started with a bolted friction slab down below, short traverse to the base of Givlers then up we went! Great rock, good weather and good company, followed by much good beer! bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

 

After that headed to up the SEWS South Arete on monday with a few more beginning climbers and had a great day. Managed to leave my first piece of fixed gear on the route. I'll make a standing offer of a beer for anyone who can successfully booty the nut without a crowbar to pry open the crack. It's at the bottom of the second pitch Just before you head into the chimney, climbers right. Nasty little curved crack the sucked it out of sight. Should be about 1 inch of wire still showing.

 

The tuesday went up the Tunnel route (?, cave route?) on the north face of Concord. Good rock and good climbing, save the vile slanting, flaring, bottoming off width half way up the first pitch. There's just nothing that compares to a desperate body jam and thrutch hellno3d.gif. After that a very nice route though and spectacular weather and great company the whole time!

Edited by selkirk

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So that's where CBS was. First you talk us into going then dissapear on us! tongue.gif I was a little curious while Snowbyrd was cursing my name halfway up Givlers!

 

You HEARD that? wink.gif It WAS a great time, Josh...Thank You for planing it. So, when are we going next? laugh.gif You've created a monster! wink.gif

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The tuesday went up the Tunnel route (?, cave route?) on the north face of Concord. Good rock and good climbing, save the vile slanting, flaring, bottoming off width half way up the first pitch. There's just nothing that compares to a desperate body jam and thrutch hellno3d.gif. After that a very nice route though and spectacular weather and great company the whole time!

 

I don't remember anything like that on the first pitch? I remember pro being hard to find, but I found a large TCU placement in a pod near the crux, which I think was faceclimbing?

 

Maybe we weren't at the same place on the rock, but nonetheless, thrutching can give the illusion of being more secure than more delicate climbing outside the crack. That said, I often find myself thrutching.

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Were you on the standard Concord route straight up from the notch or did you start a little lower? The tunnel route started below the notch, traversed up and south on a ledge then up the off width and a hand crack. Pro was no problem, a nice traversing finger crack early, and a cam placement below and left of the off width and the hand crack protected easily. Our rope gun tried going out on the face on top rope but had no luck and headed back into the same crack. There wasn't any obvious way around it. Second pitch traverses up and north, on slabs with an occasional face section, then walk through the tunnel, and up more slabs/face to the summit on easy ground (coming up from the south side).

Edited by selkirk

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