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Dave_Schuldt

What did you do this weekend?

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...1st he b*tched at some poor ol' lass who was complaining about his early morning ramblings outside of her tent...

 

You're kidding right?? somebody was complaining about Eric's early morning ramblings...No way! yellaf.gif

some people deserve death...and if you're a dilly, frustrated little beyatch who stands but 4'10", you really gotta expect it when you get into a pissing match w/ a mean ogre armed with two steel murder hammers

 

maybe it was just that i hadn't had any coffee...

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...1st he b*tched at some poor ol' lass who was complaining about his early morning ramblings outside of her tent...

 

You're kidding right?? somebody was complaining about Eric's early morning ramblings...No way! yellaf.gif

some people deserve death...and if you're a dilly, frustrated little beyatch who stands but 4'10", you really gotta expect it when you get into a pissing match w/ a mean ogre armed with two steel murder hammers

 

maybe it was just that i hadn't had any coffee...

 

 

 

yelrotflmao.gif Go get em tiger!!

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rock climbing

hiking

mud hiking

limestone flake removing

book reading

wild mushroom picking

wild mushroom eating

rain watching

snaffle watching

driving

junk store investigating

coffee drinking

bolt clipping

BigBro testing

 

 

did I mention rain watching? seems L'worth should have been plan B over Lillooet cause it rained in Lillooet part of Friday and most of Saturday

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Saturday morning: Drive from Seattle to Ingalls then back to Seattle, then back to TH to retrieve gear forgotten needed for planned climb of Stuart on Sunday. Use all available brownie points to get wife to meet us at Exit 47 with slings, belay device, and water filter.

 

Saturday Mid-day: Take out angst by going as fast as I can to Headlight Basin.

 

Saturday Evening: Experiment with new arrangements for bones in left ankle while hiking down from Ingalls South Ridge. I recommend against the "bent-inward 90 degrees" orientation unless self-mutilation, masochism, and not climbing Stuart are your objectives.

 

Sunday Morning: Sleep in and feel sorry for myself. Get up for an hour, then take a nap. Apologize to partner, who is beyond gracious and understanding. Marvel at the perfect weather for climbing Stuart. Take note of gear retrieved that is now not needed.

 

Sunday Afternoon: Slowly hobble out to car. Occupy self by constantly swearing under my breath, but not repeating any single combination of curses. Salve ego and sore ankle with beer in parking lot graciously provided by Alpine Dave and AlpineFox.

 

madgo_ron.gifcry.gif

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Planned on Index Saturday, but we drove through to 11worth when the mist hit the windshield. We didn't have a guidebook, so went to familiar ol' Castle Rock. Climbed Fault/Catapult/Bone and MF Overhang (my friend Dan finally led it clean). Some guys had tied a TR anchor directly to the last links in the chain anchor on top of Jello Tower, so we escaped via Midway in one pitch. Dan convinced me to try The Nose. I flailed and cursed and lowered off. We retrieved my gear by rapping from the top after climbing the South Face. I convinced Dan to lead Damnation, which he reports "took ten years off my life". Good day.

 

Sunday was more epic. Dan, Ned_Flanders, my girlfriend Betsy, and I climbed the West Ridge of Lundin. We got a noontime alpine start, ate lots of blueberries, and pitched out some of the climb, so by the time we were rapping toward the eastern gully, it was about 7pm. The best part of the next four hours was walking in the stream because the brush sucked so much. We finally found the PCT and hiked its endless flat pointless stupid switchbacks back to the road. Woohoo!

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looked out window, damp streets and rock, madgo_ron.gif run misc annoying errands, football, football, football, bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif w/friend, sleep, get up, annoying chores, family bday bbq.

 

climbing = 0

chores =1^5987938774

beverage = bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

overall = grin.gifHCL.gifcool.gifthumbs_up.giffruit.gif

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Climbed the s. ridge of Ingalls Sunday with Alex_Mineev. To celebrate the 48th anniversary of the publishing of "The Ascent of Rum Doodle" we climbed the wrong peak first, doing a daring ascent of the s. ridge of the south peak, exclaiming on the rotten rock and abundant scree, mystified how Nelson could call this "clean rock." Once on the summit, we saw the error of our ways, traversed to the correct peak, spent about 2 hours climbing three pitches because of the traffic there, descended, then climbed back OVER the s. peak to retrieve our packs, and hiked out.

The geology of Ingalls is much more fascinating than I'd realized, with all that serpentine mixed in with the peridotite.

But climbing a 5.4 crack in sloppy trail shoes is a mistake. At least for me.

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Went on my first multipitch climb in Leavenworth and climbed Givlers Dome with Selkirk, Dryad, and Hilweasel. WOW! (that doesn't even begin to explain it....what a great time!)

 

note snowbyrd you were climbing granitic rock.

 

my weekend...moving stuff from my parents house, taking it easy, lots of drinking...some dancing... no time for climbing yet. cry.gifbigdrink.gif

 

Beautiful granite...loved it! So how long is it gonna take for my knuckles and hands to stop bleeding? Its well worth it but im getting my keyboard all sticky...got any tips for making em heal faster? I want to go climbing today or tomorrow.

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Ingalls S Ridge Saturday *, much of it in a cloud. Fun, easy route.

 

Back up to the Elliot Sunday, North side is looking fine.

 

Unfortunately more driving than climbing crazy.gif

 

* If you were on Ingalls climbing some unamed dome below (E) of the Ingalls N/S saddle Saturday, drop me a PM, I have a couple of kick-ass pictures of you on the summit with the Ingalls Lake basin below.

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tape is aid... use technique next time!

 

Hahaha. I still have scars on my hands from my tapeless ascent of Libra Crack. tongue.gif

Chicks dig scars. And holypro, FYI. tongue.giffruit.gif

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What Slothrop said. But finally getting MF overhang clean (after first trying it, oh, 6 years ago or so, and failing almost every year since then) was worth a few beers. I had it all built up in my mind to be this heinous thing, and then it was like, reach, set feet, establish finger lock, step up on small footholds, place nut, bingo!

Bushwacking yesterday in the dark was fun. Or not.

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Friday: Running

Friday night: Running

Saturday: Running

Sunday: Beer and couch and Zzzzzz's

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Set out to climb the W face of Sloan... made the call at 11am that I didn't think we had enough time to ascend the face and be back to the cars before dark (no way I wanted to descend the approach in the dark - no question that I'm a pussy these days...

 

Good call. I recall climbing that route in '99 or '00. We hiked up the day before and bivied at the base of the route. We got back to our cars around 2 or 3am that night. Bedal Creek was a ball-busting late night bushwhack/descent. I kind of figured that the trail might be more established now, given the greater number of folks that seem to be using it to approach the Corkscrew route.

 

We hiked up to Crater Lake, WA on Saturday. After about a half hour standing around in the light drizzle, we figured Jack probably wasn't going to go on Sunday. The hike down was the swansong for my fairly new LaSportiva Trango S boots. How a pair of boots could feel so good on ascent and so torturous on descent is amazing. Coming soon to a yard sale near you.

 

-t

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Sat - hiking on Mt. Hood. The North side looks nice with a fresh coating of snow!

 

Sun - mtn biking near Hood. I stop for a rest at an old lookout site. As I'm soaking up the sun, a gust of wind knocks my helmet off the rock, and I watch in slow motion as it bounces off the rocky cliff and into the brush below. Crap, now I have to climb down and get it. I decide to make it more interesting by downclimbing the rock. I'm traversing about 8 feet from the ground when I am suddenly getting stung repeatedly by yellow jackets. I'm swearing up a storm and swatting them as I bail off the rock, taking a big jump into the pine needles below. Somehow I land right next to my helmet and I practically fly back up the rock towards the trail, still getting chased by the bees. Today, my legs are sore from the stings crazy.gif

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