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Grivel Americana screws


Cpt.Caveman

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Wow, an American ice screw…. I never tried it so I do not know. but the way I see it why going and imitating what in the market when they already producing the best ice screw out there. I will say stick to what you do best and do not go and look at other designs, where other have nail it to the perfection of that particular design.

If they need to brain storm then think how can you improve on the leveler and the racking of the 360

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I checked these out at the Grivel booth at the outdoor trade show in SLC. Getting the handle to rotate out seemed a little tricky and I worried that with anything but very thin gloves it could be very difficult. I suppose with practice it may be easier. The handle seemed a little flimsy too. They sure would rack better than the 360 screw.

 

A piece of equipment that I liked was a rip off of the Black Diamond Ice Clipper by Charlet Moser. The body of the device is slung around the harness which looked to be much more secure than the rubber bungy-cord-like attachement of the Ice Clipper.

 

Everyone had outragiously light and funky looking new leashless tools. Expect good deals on old inventory leashless tools soon.

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If it's otherwise the same as the 360 screw, the thread orientation is flopped from that of BD's. Fixing the 360's racking issue is a good thing. I bet these are shweet.

 

yeah they did fix the racking problem but they lost all the advantage of the 360--placement in tight spots and with no cleaning involve that was the main reason the 360 were and are so superior to other designs I can live with inconvenient racking but not without speed and ease of placement

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IceIce- If you read on their web page it made it seem like to me that this screw would supplement their existing 360.

 

I don’t think so ...they keeping all 3 styles...I didn’t hear or saw an indication of them discontinuing the 360 ...if they do it will be one of the most stupid move why messing with success

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IceIce,

Grivel really isn't trying to "re-invent" the ice screw and they aren't trying to copy the other screws on the market. What we heard from all of you (you being the American ice climbing community) is that the 360 screws were great except that the way they racked sucked. The proven design that allowed for efficient racking is the design that BD, Charlet, Omega, etc. uses. We're not trying to copy it, just trying to give climbers what they asked for. The other new design feature of the Americana is that the knob will allow you to never have to let go of the screw while geting it started in the ice. If you don't understand what I mean by this, imagine you are trying to place a BD screw or any other screw that has a rigid hanger. There comes that point when you make that first turn as far as your wrist can turn and then you have to let go of the screw to make the next turn. I'm sure most people that have placed screws on lead have at least imagined their screw not being in the ice enough and having it fall out after you let go of it to make the next turn. Or, like me, they have actually experienced the screw falling out and down the climb. The yellow knob rotates and allows you to keep constant pressure on the head of the screw while you let go of the hanger to make the next turn. Essentially, you are never letting go of the screw, so it will reduce your chances of dropping it while getting it started. Make sense? This design feature is new. It is not being copied from any other screw's design out there. Sure, you don't get the same crank that pivots out of the way in tight spots like the 360's. That's why the 360's are staying in the line. I've tried for over a year to convince people that all you needed to do to address the racking issue with the 360's is to carry one or two extra biners and rack fewer screws per biner. Also, you most likely would find a use for those extra biners while climbing. Grivel is just trying to make things a bit more efficient for ice climbers. If you have specific questions or concerns about this new design, PM me. The Americanas will start showing up in stores around the end of September so you will be able to take a closer look then. I've got one that I'm willing to show people if you can't wait until then.

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How often do you get enough thread in the ice on the first turn that you can spread that knob out and not lose the 'bite' that you started? In other words, when you are starting a screw and you turn it all the way you can on the first rotation, it seems to me that spreading that knob out creates too much leverage on the scew so that when you try and turn it, it pops out because it doesn't have enough bite in the ice.

 

I try to place screws about waist high so I can use my hip to hold apply pressure as I turn it.

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Sorry, I guess I didn't do a very good job of explaining this. The knob stays in, positioned above the eye of the screw until you have enough threads in to flip out the handle and start cranking. Also, having the knob above the eye allows you to keep pressure on the screw when getting it started. Hopefully this time it makes sense.

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This is a great feature, and I'm glad to see that companies are listening to climbers and creating new toys. (and not just copying other manufacturers). It looks like the fold out handle will have that same greater leaverage that the 360 has.. definitely a nice feature over the BD's in hard ice. thumbs_up.gif

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