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quote:

Originally posted by Lambone:

quote:

Originally posted by trask:

Geez Bone, you've got a real way with words. Is there anyone around here you haven't insulted, mocked or pissed off?
[big Grin]

ummm I don't know, is there?

 

I don't thik erik minds whenI flip him shit, you on the oherhand...are soooo sensitive
[Roll Eyes][big Grin]
yeah, yeah, always tryin' to get in touch with my feminine side and all [big Grin]
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Thanks for clearing that up.

 

In that case, PP's point is poop (heh-heh). Obviously, most sport climbers who consider themselves solid on 5.whatever are probably talking sport routes if they don't climb trad. So if we're talking about not being a solid 5.11+ climber in that respect, yeah, it probably applies. But as far as sportness goes, DFA can't imagine a 5.13 sportiste not being solid on 5.11 sport routes. Inconceivable!

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Does anybody remember Andy Deklerk? Man, that guy was the quintessential all around climber...mountains, aid, wall, crack or sport, ice, or sunny bouldering...and he did it all at a very high grade...5.12/5.13 cracks, 13+/14- sport routes etc.

 

Another decent all arounder would be Dr. K...he'd never admit it, but he was a damn fine crack climber as well and does decent at ice as well...

 

I think the key to these guys was their training programs/climbing volume of which a significant portion was plastic and sport climbing. Mr. Dwayner would be hard pressed to find a "trad-only" guy that could go w/ them regarding enthusiasm/love for climbing or technical ability. And he can say whatever he pleases, the proof is in the pudding.

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quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

In that case, PP's point is poop (heh-heh). Obviously, most sport climbers who consider themselves solid on 5.whatever are probably talking sport routes if they don't climb trad. So if we're talking about not being a solid 5.11+ climber in that respect, yeah, it probably applies. But as far as sportness goes, DFA can't imagine a 5.13 sportiste not being solid on 5.11 sport routes.
Inconceivable!

Hey silly Dr. I saidall-around 5.11. To much time in flash school! [Eek!]

 

Off - Isn't amazing these guys don't know about Mary's/Crucifx?

 

PP

 

[ 08-22-2002, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: Peter Puget ]

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Quote by RUMR form Godzilla Thread :"I think the key to these guys was their training programs/climbing volume of which a significant portion was plastic and sport climbing. Mr. Dwayner would be hard pressed to find a "trad-only" guy that could go w/ them regarding enthusiasm/love for climbing or technical ability. And he can say whatever he pleases, the proof is in the pudding."

 

Not at all there are lots of guys I could think of and I am sure Off could too. Besides I am not sure Dwayner was claiming sportos do not have enthusiasm, love for climbing or technical ability; however, if he was picking one or two exceptions to a rule sort of proves it. By the way I have climbed with both these gents and I would say that if Andy asked if I wanted a tow up Mary's Tears or Geek Towers I'd say yep. If the other did, I'd suggest something more modest.

 

PP

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rumur,

 

my friend whom i was apprently selling like his agent??! (kiss my ass bone) does not crank on plastic nor does he train for specifics....he is a climber and climbs....i am certainly jealous not of his ability, but his drive to constantly make himself better thru doing......

 

werd to all climbers!!

 

[big Drink][big Drink][big Drink]

 

p.s. i think bones new nick name should be "epic"!!!

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Now we're really getting into semantic mince-meat....

 

"All-around 5.11 climbers" can be shown 5.11s that they would piss their collective pants on.

 

Which begs the question: What does it mean to be a solid 5.11 climber? If'n ya don't can't won't do a certain 5.11, ya ain't a "all-around 5.11 climber"?

 

PP: The term "few" places some conditional limits on a given context, regardless of one's peripatetic reasoning....

If I know a "few" climbers, this would limit that sample pool to perhaps 5 in size. Now if a few of those climb X, Y, or Z, "few" would still denote a number which the term refers to:

 

"Amounting to or consisting of a small number: one of my few bad habits.

Being more than one but indefinitely small in number: bowled a few strings." (per www.dictionary.com)

 

So given this sordid state of affairs, ALL of my 5.13 climber buds could be "all-around 5.11 climbers", since the sample pool is but a "few"....

 

Ummmm....so there. [Wink]

 

[ 08-22-2002, 03:46 PM: Message edited by: sexual chocolate ]

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Peter Puget:

 

Climbed w/ both a bit...Erik in Europe and Smith, some at Index...Andy was mainly at Smith when i was living there...

 

Yeah, if given a choice between the two for that specific route, I'd pick Andy...still would rather have one of them do it on the sharp side than me...

 

Regarding my comment to Dwayner, i should've been more clear. My impression of his view (and maybe yours?) is that there is no respect for traditional climbing from sport climbers. I was merely countering that w/ some examples of people who respect EVERY form of climbing and perform at a high level whilst doing so...Then I made a $hitty point that their level of competence came, in part, from sport climbing and gym climbing...two things he has a clear dislike of. Shouldn't have tried to make the second point as it muddied the waters. For that matter, i dig all facets of rock climbing, both traditional and sport climbing. My sport climbing is only a notch higher (1 number grade) than my trad climbing, and that really depends on what I'm doing.

 

Additionally, Dwayner never did respond to my question about East Face down at Smith...I'm curious if that would be considered an abomination in his mind, because if it is, i have no clue where he's coming from and what his deal is...

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quote:

Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

quote:

Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing:

Off White -

 

Dr. K would be Dr. Kubiak, i.e. Eric (Erik?) Kubiak, Seattle-based hardperson (i.e. 5.14s) and loudmouth extraordinaire.

Actually, he's in NY now (I think), but I swear I hear him screaming every now and then....

[laf][laf][laf][laf][laf]

[rockband]

[rockband]

 

That's fully hilarious. Didn't he lose or almost lose one of his sponsorships (5.10, the Doctor believes) due to someone complaining to them about one of his extensive "fuck" hollerings at Smith? So goes the rumor from a fairly credible source, anyway.

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