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xtiesue

Looking for Glacier Peak beta

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A group of us are planning to climb Glacier Peak over Labor Day weekend. We're thinking we're going to hike in via the North Fork Sauk River trail and climb via the first ascent route (basically, White Mountain to the White Chuck Glacier to the Suiattle Glacier, then hike up the ridge to Disappointment Peak and the summit.)

 

Has anyone else done this climb this season (or even past seasons?) We're thinking the "crux" might be getting from White Mountain onto the White Chuck Glacier; that looks like the trickiest routefinding based on the research we've done so far.

 

It would be great to hear about any other routes folks have taken this season, too. Thanks!!!

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I climbed the Disappointment Peak route in mid August 1998. I bushwacked in via Baekos Creek (not recommended), so I can't comment on the area between White Mt. and White Chuck Glacier. However, it should not pose a problem. Photo on page 99 of the green Beckey guide shows that this area is non-technical open country. You could even take the Pacific Crest Trail to the base of White Chuck if you wanted.

The crux of the route was a short vertical gully, just beneath the summit of Disappointment Peak, composed of crumbling volcanic mud and ice. I chose to go straight up this, but it likely can be bypassed on either side. Most of the climb above the heather was laborious volcanic talus. I went down the Sitkum which was low angle, firm neve, very easy, but bring crampons. Descending your planned ascent route would be a real pain. I don't know the condition of the PCT where the spur trail to Boulder Basin joins it, but if I were you I'd take the PCT back, even if you have to work a bit to find it at first.

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