jkrueger Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 An opportunity has crossed my path and I have a few questions and concerns . . . 1. What exactly is a Grade IV route? 2. What are the Grade IV routes at Red Rocks? 3. How feasible is it to do two Grade IV routes in Red Rocks over the course of a weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_w Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 #1 - If memory serves me right, Grade IV is 8H\Full day for the average party. If you are fast, Simul-climb, link pitches, you can shrink that down quite a bit. If you are on a common route at Red Rocks, expect a couple other parties on route that can slow you down. You also have to worry about gate closure. If you are doing a route off the loop road, you have to wait till they open the gate and be out before they close it. Some canyons have long hikes in. For some of the really long hikes in, I think they allow bivy permits in advance. #3 - Yes it's possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 lotsa cool grade IV's down there. a few that come to mind are epineperine, cloud tower, levitation 29 and there are a few more then that too...i just dont know them off the top of my head...ask lanceg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 ahem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 tissue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 just heard my name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 bless you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 get a room you 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj221 Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Late night exits from Red Rocks are no problem. When I visited this spring the exit gate was replaced with those unidirectional tire spikes that are frequently found at rental car lots. I exited the loop road at 11:30 P.M. with a smooth transition from my climbing epic to my gambling epic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Call Jed the BLM climbing ranger to get your free late exit/ overnight permit. 702-515-5138 Much cheaper than the $50.00 ticket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Epinephrine is the classic up in Black Velvet Canyon - definitely get the exit/overnight permit and bring lights if you go up it. I've heard the frightened yelling of [strong] folks trying to top out on it and/or trying to descend safely in the dark. Also, check your sphincter control and meditation skills before engaging those chimneys... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildbillc Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Nice long routes there, what grade are you looking for? Bulas book into sollar slab can be combined for a total of 10+ pitches and goes at 5.9 - 5.6, Refried brains 5.9 for 7+ pitches, frog land 5.8 (never done it due to traffic) Epinephrine 5.9 grad V? climb to the top of the tower for 8 pitches (by the book) or top out by doing all pitches 15 -20. eagle dance 5.10 7 pitches... The list goes on and on at red rocks. If your going prior to late october try to pick long routes in the shade. Unless your planning on spending the night on a route you should make sure that you have a turnaround time, for instance top of the 6 pitch by 2pm or wrap off. don't take my ratings or pitch numbers to seriusly Im sure theres some errors. Give me a belay and I will break out the red rocks select. Mon or Wed mornings early work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildbillc Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Two grade IV in two days... Most likely you could but it might be more fun to get used to the rock on a couple of sport climbs and something tasty like Dark Shadows (5.8 trad 3 pitches)for your first day and then do one of the five star long routes the second day. I don't think it is nessasary to spend the night on any of the grade IV, allways seems like alot more work to bring the bivy gear and as chanard says for epinephrine "if you bring bivy gear you will use it..." just leave camp early and have a turn around time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 rainbow buttress 10 pitches III 5.8 + 3 hr approach or suck it up and do black orpheus III 5.10a, then downclimb 1/2 hr to the start of rainbow butt for a 20 pitch day! **** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Feasability of doing two long routes in two days is good if you pick easier to find stuff. Some of the canyons are a bit tricky to navigate your first time up them. Swains descriptions, especially the descents, can be a bit nebulous. Black Velvet canyon is not in the park and has a short approach. Routes are generally in the shade from sometime in the morning on. A good choice for the first day. Most of the good routes in Oak creek canyon are sunny. The walkoff from the upper painted bowl routes is spectacular. Check the moon phase if you think you'll be out late. If its up and 75% or better you won't need a headlamp. GL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted August 20, 2004 Share Posted August 20, 2004 Epinephrine is the classic up in Black Velvet Canyon - definitely get the exit/overnight permit...if you go up it Why? It's not on the loop road, you're not going to get ticketed up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt45 Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 An opportunity has crossed my path and I have a few questions and concerns . . . 1. What exactly is a Grade IV route? 2. What are the Grade IV routes at Red Rocks? 3. How feasible is it to do two Grade IV routes in Red Rocks over the course of a weekend? If you have not done a Red Rocks grade IV route previously, I would agree with what others have said and not try to do two of them in two days. The approaches and descents can be sort of tiring, and can take much longer than anticipated. Once you're familiar with the area, you should be set for more ambitious outings. Something like Dark Shadows or some other short multi-pitch the first day, then something longer the next day might be a good plan of attack. For the longer routes at RR, it's a good idea to plan on moving continously from 6am-->10pm (or later), and then being psyched if you finish earlier than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Jason I disagree with most of the people, you have all the tools needed to do two grade IV's down there. Just be smart about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 By base camping in BV, you have many climbs to choose from with a significantly shorter approach. Many climbs are walk offs, don't forget your shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 A lot of IVs in the Urioste guide are really only IIIs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted August 21, 2004 Share Posted August 21, 2004 Why? It's not on the loop road, you're not going to get ticketed up there. They still check Black Velvet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 They only check Black Velvet periodically. And when they check it, they are checking for people who are camping there. They do not check Black Velvet for late exit. In the high season, the rangers will show up at midnight or later in the black velvet parking lot and will subsequently ticket everyone they find. This is not a problem for people who come out an hour or so after the "official" closing of the park. Doing two grade IVs in two days is an entirely doable thing in Red Rock canyon. Many long routes in RR have short approaches. The difficulty for the first time visitor is understanding the approach directions and developing an eye for seeing the route from a distance. Though many approaches are under an hour, one may still get lost and add time. To avoid approach problems, the new RR Super Topo book is the best book for a short focused visit. But if you plan on coming back over and over, the sometimes confusing Falcon Guide includes more routes. If you are a moderately strong climber with an eye for approaches, two grade IVs are a reasonable goal. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted August 24, 2004 Author Share Posted August 24, 2004 Thanks for the info! My invite to Red Rocks is from someone who knows the area and asked me along with the specific goal of doing two grade IV routes in a weekend. Having never been there, I thought it would be a good idea to see what I was looking at before committing to the trip. It sounds like the main issues are approaches, route finding, and getting out before the gates close. On the bright side, it seems like the goal is a definite possibility! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 Red Rocks Grade IV's are very very low commitment and most do not deserve the grade IV. Everything there should probably be downgraded a full number, and most of the ratings are way overrated too. You should have no problem climbing a grade IV on consecutive days. I'm REALLY not trying to sound like, "i'm soo cool I can do this..blah blah blah", red rocks longest approach is only 2 hours. (longest decent also 2 hours). All I'm saying is don't limit yourself, go for it and see what happens. p.s. black orpheus to chicken lips is wicked fun for a link up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancegranite Posted August 26, 2004 Share Posted August 26, 2004 I second the motion presented by my most esteemed colleague from the great state of Washington. Black Orpheus to Chicken lips is a outstanding linkup of two classic lines! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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