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[TR] Mt Rainier- DC 8/14/2004


Dr_Crash

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Climb: Mt Rainier-DC

 

Date of Climb: 8/14/2004

 

Trip Report:

First time was not the charm... Two of our team of 4 got sick, and after taking an eternity (5 hours!) to go from Camp Muir to about 3/4 of the DC on the second day, we turned back when half the team said they wouldn't make it any further.

 

A few people PMed me for conditions... Snow starts at Pebble Creek. From Camp Muir to Cadaver Gap, it's smart to rope up as there are crevasses there. There are a few crevasses to traverse on the way to the cleaver, including a couple very small jumps (really, more like a stretched out bounce step). The cleaver is basically rock (loose) and it's a good idea to remove your crampons there for the scramble up. The route is well wanded though some wands are fallen, and we erred a bit too much on the right at some point and had to backtrack. Looking further up may have saved me that though (many wands have reflective tape on the flag). I haven't seen the conditions above the cleaver, obviously, but rangers say the crevasses are very obvious, and the only risk there is softening snow bridges, especially on the descent. They had a few people punch through, up to 7 feet down (scary enough, I've been told). On the cleaver, the main risk is rock fall, mostly climber inflicted. Watch that party above you! We also got a big boulder running at us above Ingraham flats. It went in between two of us, and was definitely big and fast enough to inflict real damage.

 

I learned a lot during this trip. About timing, about the weakest link in a team, and about the importance of having a big pot on a hot stove to melt snow faster. Even though---or maybe because---we didn't reach the summit, it was enlightening.

 

Oh, and it is gorgeous! The Emmons glacier is a big mess of huge crevasses, and the ice fall on the Ingraham doesn't look bad either smile.gif

 

I'll be back there in a couple weeks.

 

drC

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear.

Shoulda had a third big pot with a white gas stove.

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Sounds a lot like my second attempt at Rainier.

 

Took me three times to finally get to the summit, but I have to say, each time was just as great a memory because I remembered to enjoy the journey.

 

Wishing you success on your second attempt!

 

Brianna

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To be honest, we went with the theory that if one of us went in ... the other would hold. The person in the hole would be responsible for hauling their own sorry butt out. Mmm ... prusiks.

 

Secondarily, we made sure to have a couple of parties ahead of us that would punch through first. wink.gif

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Agree with Dr. Crash's logic on 2 man rope team practice.

 

If you are planning to spend time on glaciers on a two person rope, it is wise to be sure both parties have practical experience. While one person may be able to hold a fall, don't think you can always count on the person in the crack being able to get out by themself or good samaritans coming along and bailing you out.

 

If nothing else, being on a rope team of 2 reminds you to pay attention to how you store glacier gear on your pack. For example, if you are laying on the snow holding your partner's fall, you will want easy access to snow anchors (picket most likely) and you should be able to get 'em off your pack easy with one hand while prone, in arrest. Assuming you can get to some pro, still wouldn't want my life depending upon someone pounding in a picket, and getting it tied off while in arrest unless I knew the person on the other end of the rope had at least practiced this before.

 

The easy answer is to avoid rope team of 2 on glaciers. Sure, you can probably get away with it on busy routes like DC, but it may not be the safest path to longevity in glaicer climbing.

 

Just my 2 cents worth.

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