texplorer Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 OK, I'll agree with uncle tricky that Free For All is a testpiece for the grade. If there was such a thing as 5.8d I guess it would be one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PDXClimber Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 I agree with Double Cross (and other Josh climbs) being sandbagged. If you are not solid on handjams, it won't seem 5.7+... Classic Crack, Broughton feels weird and slimy, but is it really harder than 5.9. It seems easier to fingerjam on it than lieback. At Beacon, Free for all (5.8) is on the right side of flake (somewhat unprotected) and Free for Some (5.9/5.10a) is on the left side (better pro). Both are hard for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek_the_Greek Posted August 18, 2002 Share Posted August 18, 2002 Ok, I got a new one. Went bouldering at the Acid Castle area in Ashland yesterday. A bit obscure, but fun nonetheless. Stupid (SW Oregon) guidebook has "suggested grades" listed, noting "Routes are graded using the V-scale....the most common grading system in the world for boulder problems...problems graded V1 are pretty hard; in fact, the hardest problems in the area at this time are V3". What crap. If you're going to use the V-scale, use it properly. A grading system is of no use whatsoever if it's on its own planet. As far as I could tell, "V1s" there were generally between V2+ and V4. I didn't get up any "V2"'s or anything harder. Ok, I'm not the world's biggest hardman or anything, but gimme a break, I can do V2 problems. My continued bitterness and disillusionment with climbing grades has intensified. Numbers are bullshit. Climbing is dumb. Life is pointless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 I would consider any beta from Dru to be potentially sandbagging! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 I'm my own favorite sandbag. Come and whip off my wider section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by jkrueger: I would consider any beta from Dru to be potentially sandbagging! "Orifice Fish" at Smoke Bluffs is easy for 5.9. More like 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walter_Burt Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 Classic Crack at Broughton - 10a/10b and getting harder as it gets greasier. Gandalfs Grip at Broughton - 10a/10b. There used to be a pedestal on the face traverse to the corner that made it a lot easier - you can see the scar if you look for it. There are several other "10a" cracks at Broughton and Beacon that are Index "stiff" Free for All - Beacon. An Index 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Clarke Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 my 2 cents *Buttered Balls - Yosemite *The Blade - Smith Rock *Jap Gardens - Index *Californiakater - Exit 32 How about over rated climbs? *Thin Fingers - Index *Apron Strings - Squamish *Lower Heinos Cling - Smith *Nut Cracker - Yosemite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 19, 2002 Share Posted August 19, 2002 the first pitch(5.8) of "thin red line" on liberty bell. Run out/gear thin, hard route finding, one place with a definite 5.9 move. the "hollow flake" on the salathe of el cap. Was a good grade for it's time when chimney's were routinely climbed, but now try 50ft of runout with no gear in an off-width chimney. You can protect with a big bro but have you ever tried walking one? The only advice is to find something to practice on beforehand. Bet this single pitch has turned more people back than any other. yes maybe the last pitch of lovin arms, I wasn't sure which way it went, seemed like a line to the right was it but didn't lead to the anchors. godzilla is properly rated, anyone who thinks otherwise doesn't know cracks or has been climbing too much at the gimme "exit" crags [ 08-19-2002, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: Buckaroo ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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