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Gary_Yngve

[TR] Prusik- S Face, not quite 8/8/2004

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Pope, I had a similar reaction to the flaring chimney - it was physical! (I think the trick might be to try to go into it facing left, so you are ready for the pull-out move without having to do some kind of shoulder-jam to turn around.) You could be right about the 5.10 rating, but for twenty five years I've heard folks generally saying the last pitch is the crux, and even back in the hard-man days it was thought a "hard 5.9." I don't know.

 

(Anyway, I've modified the topo I posted, based on comments I received. Feedback still welcome.)

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Ratings are so individual anyway.

 

Regarding Burgner-Stanley, my vote is the last pitch is 5.9, but the pitch before is 5.10a. I know others who love chimneys and who would say the reverse. My hunch is that if you are a wuss like me and try, in that chimney, to squeeze in close to the back to place pro, then it will feel harder.

 

I also had the pleasure of completing that climb in a snowstorm after a morning approach from Icicle Creek TH, and completed the descent to Gustov's that afternoon/evening after stopping to help a W Ridge party try unsuccesfully to retrieve a wet, stuck rope. Long day.

 

In any event, my hat is off to those earlier era hard men who still make us sweat over the difficulty of their grades.

 

Regarding multiple threads about the approach or descent hike, for me, the choice depends a bit on snow cover. I'd prefer descending from Aasgard early season with snow when the descent to Colchuck Lake is fast, but not now when I'd prefer humping out the trail via Snow Lakes.

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that chimney was the most grueling thing i ever climbed. the last pitch was hard cuz i was sooo tired.

amazing route

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I climbed the route last summer. I would have to say that the chimney pitch is a thrutch, though really short. However, if Meat Grinder gets 10a, it seems like this chimney pitch should also be 10a? It seemed hard for a 9.

 

The last pitch I found easier physically, and the "crux" top section the easiest part of the pitch, but I think even at Index the whole thing would be rated 9+ or 10a.

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If rap bolters learned how to use a trad rack before they learned how to use a Bosch this wouldn't be a problem.

 

Why upgrade a previously existing route or pitch to match a more recent route? Maybe I'm off my rocker but if we going to do anything wouldn't it be downgrade the more recent climb(s)?

 

They are both 9s... especially since you can get a no hands no feet rest in the chimney. If you can't climb something or have a hard time with it question yourself first; not the rating... everyone has a weakness... mine is thin finger cracks.

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Question to all the people who think the chimney is 10a.

 

Which way were you facing in the chimney? Right-hand or left-hand into the crack; that is back to the wall on your right-side or back to the slab on your left-side?

 

I most definitely think, neither pitch warrants a 5.10

rating, too many rests.

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that web site SO ROCKS! How cool is that bus! Dang, I shoulda just got me one of those babies when was homeless smile.gif

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If rap bolters learned how to use a trad rack before they learned how to use a Bosch this wouldn't be a problem.

 

What a silly thing to say. If trad climbers of the 60s were willing to accept that they were actually getting better than their "there is no harder thing than 5.9" closed system ratings, I think grading in this range would be alot more fair and standard across the board. I think I've climbed enough and in enough places to be able to legitimately question the ratings, thanks very much! wave.gif Adjusting ratings both up and down on routes is a time-honored tradition: some routes deserve downgrading, some routes deserve upgrading. Its not a radical departure to grade something 5.10a from 5.9, nor is it a radical thing to downgrade a pitch popularly accepted as 10a as "fealt 5.9 to me". Its all just an opinion, after all.

 

Alex

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Which way were you facing in the chimney? Right-hand or left-hand into the crack; that is back to the wall on your right-side or back to the slab on your left-side?

 

I think I did it left hand in, feet against the right hand wall. There is a great rest right before the thrutching. I had a pack hanging from my harness, though. Admittedly, I suck at chimneying, so squeeze 5.9 moves always feel hard to me. frown.gif

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hey alex, i too first did it left-hand in the crack...this way for sure feels 5.10 as all the killer knob foot holds are behind you on the slab, virtually unusable (see above picture in will's post).

To send it 5.9 way, put your right-hand in the crack and milk those chickenheads of ease.

This is more than just my opinion...friends who have done the route a bunch of times feel this is true as well.

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"That dude" also says that the flare is 5.9 and the last pitch is 5.9+. Maybe he is a rap bolter?

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Or you can climb it with the double shoulder jam technique:

 

IMG_0244W.jpg

 

 

Check out Eric and Lucie's S. Face Prusik page, some cool pics of the route for sure yah!

 

http://ericandlucie.com/Cascades%20Rock%20Climbs/Prusik%20Peak/Prusik.htm

 

I think she may be turning around to get out to the chicken head, that looks almost exactly like how i turned around. I thought the chimney was easier than butt lips and to chestbeat there was ice in it when i did it too. I thought the last pitch was awful stout I took a lead fall and had not taken a fall on a 5.9 for a long time prior to that. Personally think it would get 10a at index, and 10b everywhere else.

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to be honest, it might be a 5.9. but since i have very little experience with thrutch chimneys i prolly did it the hard way, just as i did when i was learning to climb cracks.

 

i came into the chimney left arm in, but felt that i was leaning into the wall. i just could not move. maybe it's my fat ass.

 

i spent a fair bit of time turning around. i think the noises i made must have been amusing.

 

perhaps the previous day's effort had something to do with my exhaustion. i missed the turn to the lake off the main trail. ended up walking about 1.5 hours extra and did the steep bit in the heat of the day.

 

re the rating--it is interesting tonote that on sharma's 15a route there is no 15a move. it was 'given' the rating because of the sustained climbing at 14c/d. hence this route might desreve it's 10a. but it felt like 11a.

 

just how hard do chimneys get?

 

my .025 ($can)

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