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[TR] Green Giant Buttress- Dreamah 8/4/2004


Uncle_Tricky
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Climb: Green Giant Buttress-Dreamah

 

Date of Climb: 8/4/2004

 

Trip Report:

Hurricane H and I went west from twisp in search of a place to see Fahrenheit 9-11. Closest theater showing moore's film was in Everwet.

 

Good movie--it puts a couple pieces of Bush's "Bread and Circuses" presidency in context. The bread being W's massive deficit spending and monetary stimulus (AKA "Borrow and Spend") during a period of economic growth (albeit slow and unevenly distributed). Iraq is of course the circus, and while clowns are apparently running the show, its not really that funny or entertaining.

 

I've always considered Bush's simpleton image merely that--a clever administration-encouraged perception to portray our silver spoon ivy league cowboy in chief as a straight-talking, brush-clearing "average joe." Behind the dullard image, I imagined W was a pretty cagey fellow.

 

Increasingly, I worry the guy truly is a dangerously retarded boy emperor who should be wading around in the kiddie pool wearing his water wings and peeing in his shorts while eating twinkies instead of running this fine country into the ground with all the adeptness of Enos, who of course jumps his police car into the same pond every week on the Dukes of Hazard (starring Dick Cheney as Boss Hogg).

 

Anyway, we brought our gear so after the show we decided to camp at Darrington and do Dreamer the next day.

 

Climb was much fun. Overcast and semi-threatening skies all day, but not a drop of rain fell. Clouds and fog poured down over the gap to the south of Green Giant Buttress and flowed down the valley before dissapearing.

 

Hurricane stormed up the climb. But I felt bit bad about leaving her with significant pendulum potential on the crux pitch (the face moves to roof/lieback/traverse above the blue crack). However, trial and (t)error has taught me rope drag is not my friend. She is absurdly strong, but that doesn't help much on the reachy slabby moves below the roof. After up and downclimbing a couple times while eyeing the possible swing, she cruised it.

 

After many rappels involving some temporarily entertaining rope-eating flake fustercluckage, we returned to granite waterfalls below to retreive stashed beerverages, pay homage to the color green and watch the day go away.

 

Demonstrating almost Daisy Duke-like driving abilities, Hurricane sucessfully dodged many glowing-eyed suicidal deer trying to merge with her vehicle at high speeds on the late night road back to Twisp.

 

Sequence of Hurricane on the blue crack pitch:

 

Some hard face moves to reach crack:

905Picture_006.jpg

 

Flaking it:

905Picture_010.jpg

 

Hurricane experimenting with the useful, but under-utilized "head jam.":

905Picture_013.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Shoes would have preferable to sandals.

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