Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Chriznitch

[TR] Mt Olympus & Mt Tom- 7/24-31/2004

Recommended Posts

Climb: Mt Olympus & Mt Tom

 

Date of Climb: 7/24-31/2004

 

Trip Report:

For our big 2004 vacation, my girlfriend Amy and I decided to spend a week in the Olympic Mountains. Aiming for Mt Olympus, we hiked in along the backpacking mecca of the Hoh River trail 18 miles to the base of the mountain. The approach was pretty uneventful, but there was some interesting wildlife on the trail

 

6016approach_llamas-med.jpg

 

Once reaching the Blue Glacier, we switched from tennies to boots and roped up to work through our way up the crevasses

 

6016approach_blue_glacier-med.jpg

 

The terrain switched from blue ice down low to snow up higher as we ascended the Snow Dome. This was interesting hauling up full packs but paid off later (UGH!)

 

6016Amy_climbing_snow_dome-med.jpg

 

The icefalls were incredible and we built our camp atop the Snow Dome--our home for 4 nights

 

6016camp_view-med.jpg

 

Our day hikes were interesting. We observed the large mudslide coming off Mt Athena

 

6016mudslide_off_Mt_Athena-med.jpg

 

We also visited the summits of Mt Olympus' west peak and Mt Tom, a neighboring peak. I was surprised to read in the register that the last ascent was in 2001--strange being adjacent to the heavily visited Oly. Mt Tom was a straightforward mountain, but required descending the west face the Olympus massif to obtain the White Glacier and the slog up to the summit. So afterward it meant re-ascending Olympus which was a butt-kicker

 

6016Mt_Tom_aftermath-med.jpg

 

Our rewards for camping up high on the glacier included great views of sunrises, sunsets, the Northern lights, and the "Goat Show"--watching the antics of the local mountain goats inhabiting the area around our camp. We saved our best meal for the last night up there

 

6016only_the_best-med.jpg

 

This final night also provided the best sunset of the trip--over the fog-laden valleys leading out to the Pacific

 

6016sunset_from_camp-med.jpg

 

It was definitely a great introduction to a special place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sweet pictures! how long are you on the mountain for after the approach trail? And is there some scrambling at the top? Were all the crevases open, meaning would it be easy to travel unroped?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Mt. Tom has certainly been climbed numerous times since 2001. Not everyone signs summit registers. wave.gif

 

Looks like a great trip. The way you did it, it was probably even worth carrying your packs past Glacier Meadows.

 

Thanks for the TR and pictures.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would assume Mt Tom has been climbed as well...

suckbm: past Glacier Meadows it is another 4 miles and 3500' to the summit. Most parties do this easily in a day with reasonable packs. The summit pinnacle offers various options: most climb a steep snow pitch and then scramble to the top. I chose to climb all rock--about 220' of 4th class stuff. It was solo'd easily enough, but I did make two 30m raps on the way down.

As far as the glaciers go, they seem pretty obvious, but I'm going to take the 5th when it comes to advising solo glacier travel cool.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

werd. cool pics. thumbs_up.gif

 

4 nites on Snow Dome.... you crazy sonza bitchez!!! wow.

rockband.giffruit.gif

 

climbed Olympus on 4th of July weekend, 2001. MHANN I wanna go there again. some day... tongue.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great job! I spent this last fourth of july on snow dome, and wish we could have stayed longer! I was eye-ballin' Mt. Tom while we were up there, but never made it over there, summited the middle peak though. And what a amazing photo of that slide...I have a picture in which you could see half of it, but thats the full meal deal!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great trip! Nice pics. That's quite a rockslide. Something that big should have shown up on seismographs around the peninsula, I would think!

 

As for Mt Tom, I wouldn't be surprised if it hasn't been climbed since 2001. It's a stepchild-of-a-peak and well off the beaten path. Regardless, it is seldom climbed and I am envious of your accomplishment. I'd love to hear more details about the traverse over there and back. Any pics of the route? Any pics looking down White Glacier and the valley that drains into Elk Lake? grin.gif

 

Cool trip!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any story on that mudslide? It looks like it covers part of a glacier? Maybe major ice collapse or something? looks pretty wild in any event...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

I talked to two people in the Hoh parking lot last summer who claimed to have just returned from summiting Mt. Tom. I didn't realize it was such a rare event or I would have asked for more info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here are a couple more pictures from the trip

 

 

Panic Point and the Snow Dome on the approach:

 

6016IMG_0403-med.jpg

 

the summit of Panic Point:

 

6016IMG_0333-med.jpg

 

This is the Snow Dome and camp (marked by arrow) from the summit. This day was obviously hazy from smoke:

 

6016snow_dome_from_summit-med.JPG

 

enjoying the view from Panic Point looking at Mt Tom:

 

6016IMG_0383-med.jpg

 

from near the Mt Tom summit looking back at the west face of Olympus. The White Glacier is gentle all the way from base to summit. My route to the White Glacier is in red:

 

6016west_face_Oly_route-med.JPG

 

bright Mt Tom with the valley and stream flowing off the White Glacier:

 

6016IMG_0402-med.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

as far as that mudslide--I'm not sure. Must've been earlier this season, at least before the RASTA STYLEE trip. Sure is pretty burly

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Great pics thumbs_up.gif With everything else on fire, the Olympics might be the place to go.

It was sweet this weekend

384188-7440512-M.jpg

384188-7440512-M.jpg.34275ab48003ef03eb812151648813a3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When rappelling from the summit, are there natural anchors suitable for webbing and slings or is it already fixed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When rappelling from the summit, are there natural anchors suitable for webbing and slings or is it already fixed?

There's 10 years worth of slings to rap from. yellaf.gif You may want to bring a sling or 2 for the rock section on the way up/belay anchor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
When rappelling from the summit, are there natural anchors suitable for webbing and slings or is it already fixed?

 

If you are asking about Olympus: there are established rap stations with slings around boulders.

 

If you area asking about Mt. Tom: I don't know. I don't think rappelling is required???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you don't need raps for Mt Tom. For Olympus's west peak, there are (at least) 2 raps stations on the summit. One takes you down the rock side (south side)--this is what I used. Since I didn't have 2 ropes, I had to place a sling halfway down (it's a little over 200') so that should still be there. From the north side (standard route) a single rope rappel will easily reach the 45 degree snow slope where you can downclimb the rest...

The pinnacle has plenty knobs to place your own stuff. Slings provide ample protection.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
From the north side (standard route) a single rope rappel will easily reach the 45 degree snow slope where you can downclimb the rest...

? Single rope rappel will take you to a scree slope where you can descend to the snow (at least right now). The snow bridge at Crystal Pass collapsed so there's a bit 10' (maybe) of steep ice that some may find uncomfortable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went with a friend who's not done much/any tech climbing. We brought 1 picket & 2 screw each (1 too many each!) + 8mm*60m rope (50m would have been better) + a couple slings (swiped from the picket). The ice sections are fine if your at all comfortable on ice - I belayed my friend up/down them. Summit pinnacles maybe 15m of climbing - nothing hard for someone who can make it to that point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just curious...the steepish snow/ice you guys mentioned is making me wonder about what I was planning on using for footwear. Heading up to Oly the weekend after next and some of us were planning on using trailrunners and alum crampons. Sounds like at least one of us should bring boots that may be a little better suited for ice.. (still gonna use running shoes for the approach though)

advice? thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×