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JoshK

the guye peak improbable traverse

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recommended? Is it truly not chossy crap like the rest of the peak looks like? Are the 5.8 sections legit?

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I enjoyed it makes a good half day out. There is really only 2 or 2 and a half pitches of good climbing but still a fun route for the amount of effort involved. I will do it again

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It is fun, only a half day as Eric said, but worthwhile.

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There still might be some booty up there from last year. I wasn't going to say anything about it, but since I've been too lazy... well, the booty gods giveth and they taketh. The follower couldn't clean the stopper at the anchor before the improbable traverse, unclipped but forgot to pull the tricam while on the traverse, and then I got suckered into going the length of the bench and lowering off another tricam, about 20 feet. So, three pieces, one spectra runner, and two biners for booty. Of the traverse, get past the tricky part and then I think you go up from the tree on the ledge. I think that's how it's supposed to be done. I got suckered into following the ledge to the end where there was a rusty piton.

It was fun climbing, even though we did get off route. I'm pretty sure we got in the last ascent last year before the snow and cold weather sealed things off, barring a winter ascent. So if nobody has been up there, maybe there's still booty.

Also, if you drive into the 'private' streets, there's one that will take you directly under the scree approach and there's a maintenance lot there. It didn't say anything about 'no trespassing', as far as parking there and it provides a super easy approach.

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PP, that is the lot we saw when we checked out the climb. Definiltey makes the approach fast.

 

I wonder if the avy-control over there? Seems like that slope is prime house-wiping-out territory.

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I've done the direct finish. It's somewhat loose and you only just make the ramp above with 60s if belaying from the lunch ledge. There isn't a good anchor when you get to the ledge.

 

I'm not really sure this would be my choice for a selected or recommended climb.

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I've done the direct finish. It's somewhat loose and you only just make the ramp above with 60s if belaying from the lunch ledge. There isn't a good anchor when you get to the ledge.

 

I'm not really sure this would be my choice for a selected or recommended climb.

 

So we did this climb today, and I led the loose chimney "direct" variation. I was able to reach a spot with bomber anchor placements (2 cams + 1 nut) at the top of the chimney, just below the actual ramp. I had to stop there because as I was on a 50 m rope, but it was a bomber anchor. That chimney is another story, there were several large loose blocks that I was afraid to touch. I'd like to see some of those rope-chopping blocks disappear, but I wasn't about to start trying to clean them on lead. Some nice moves though, and I'm glad we went this way instead of taking that traverse.

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Ivan and I did this a couple of days ago too. We also did the direct variation. That move getting from the slung-block belay onto the crack fucking stumped me. It was altogether probably my most pathetic alpine flail ever. I don't know what about it I couldn't get but I ended up falling a couple times while seconding. I was such a tired pussy after that I prusiked up into the crack. shocked.giftongue.gifpitty.gifmoon.gifwazzup.gifthumbs_down.gif

 

In any event, it was pretty fun I thought, all and all. It's really close to home most of all. Some of the scrambling above the large ramp was actually pretty fun too.

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In my opinion the traverse pitch is the reason for doing this climb.

 

If I go back, I'll definitely do that. When confronted with the decision it was hard to deny that the direct "variation" looked like the obvious natural line. A traverse around something always seems like a blemish, but, hey, whatever, you are right...that is the whole point of that route.

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In my opinion the traverse pitch is the reason for doing this climb.

i thought the direct line was sweet...the 2 pitons at the crux were amusing, mostly because 1's ripped out but still attached to the other, which therefore hardly seems reliable. the lack of a proper anchor at the top of the 60 meters is a definite negative though.

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Ivan and I did this a couple of days ago too. We also did the direct variation. That move getting from the slung-block belay onto the crack fucking stumped me. It was altogether probably my most pathetic alpine flail ever. I don't know what about it I couldn't get but I ended up falling a couple times while seconding. I was such a tired pussy after that I prusiked up into the crack. shocked.giftongue.gifpitty.gifmoon.gifwazzup.gifthumbs_down.gif

 

In any event, it was pretty fun I thought, all and all. It's really close to home most of all. Some of the scrambling above the large ramp was actually pretty fun too.

 

I suck at my previous beta. Just by coincidence a friend had asked if I wanted to go up Guye and retrieve my gear, if it was still there. So I told him how it was just my luck I'd told all the booty-freaks here about all the booty sitting on the rock since last year and had I known I was going to climb it, I never would've said anything. Then he pointed out I was a little confused and had done the Ramp route last year and NOT the Improbable Traverse. So sorry for the bad beta, not that it mattered since once we started climbing I could barely remember just where the heck we went last year...

That looked like one exposed scramble you two did, I was a little nauseated thinking about one slip while watching you two work your way up... you should definitely be called the trundler wink.gif That was a nice try at getting past the overhang to the crack, we both happened to watch as you peeled, which then pendelumed you probably to harder stuff and hence the prusik. After you got to a climbable position, you seemed to do well on the crack.

It turned into a 12 hour epic for us. I really hate Guye Peak now. I got my gear back, a testament to how few climbers climb this peak. This was followed by more desperate climbing, loose rocks and muy suckage. While my beta and memory sucked, I was glad to relay messages for you two smile.gif I've been using those frs radios and they are quite the thing to have and well worth the weight.

Well, we had a nice day for climbing, thankfully. Nice to sort of meet you.

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nice, so that was you guys! did ya'll end up walking out in the dark? we were a bit worried as we partied at the summit and you never appeared. i admit i was much confused for awhile as to what ya'll were doing...looked like you were trying to pioneer something new and getting spanked int he process. thanks for serving as a relay station for us...it was too windy to hear a damn thing.

 

finally, much kudos to the unknown stranger who ferried josh and i up the road back to our car. standing on the back bumper, daisy-chained to the roof rack, racing down the road in the slip stream w/ a wet shirt on was better than sex that day...

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Yeah, it was a bit confusing trying to figure out where to go in some places. If I had any pride insofar as climbing, I think it was all lost that day. I got up that thing by any means necessary. While no prusik was used, I wouldn't of thought twice had the situation arose... all the while killing my partner's leg wink.gif One area had us getting a mouthful of these mini pine needles as we used the bush for a hand hold.

Oh I think we got to the summit around 6pm. Whatever it was, we got to the Issaquah P&R at 8:14, so maybe not a full 12 hours but a seemingly god awful long time. Muy spankage, hence the lack of desire to climb that thing again.

Last year was worse, we got a late start, hit the same problems and wound up bivying just shy of the south rib frown.gif A constant Homer Simpson "Doh!" as we shivered away through the night, with the hum and headlights of the interstate below, all of maybe a mile or half mile away...

 

Good lead up that crack. I got a ride as well from a hiker who'd been to Gem Lake.

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ha! Great to figure out what "those two guys" were over there doing. After yarding I remember thinking "well, they look lost too" wink.gif The worse thing about that fall is grabbed the rope. I have never done that before and it fucking sucked. I got a bad rope burn on both hands. And your suspicion was correct. The pendelum plus about 20 feet of rope stretch left me in a worse situation, tired and mentally owned. I too hate guye peak. Of course i'll be back soon enough to do that stupid thing correctly. There is no excuse for such a piss poor performance wink.gifcry.gif

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Such hatred for Guye peak? I can't speak to the west face routes -- they all look nasty. But for a peak so close to the road it does have a lot to offer. Go explore the south facing routes. There are nice, long scrambles over there. And the east gully is fun in winter -- I'm sure it's been skied, but I'm suprised no one has done it and renamed it something more dramatic...

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Such hatred for Guye peak? I can't speak to the west face routes -- they all look nasty. But for a peak so close to the road it does have a lot to offer. Go explore the south facing routes. There are nice, long scrambles over there. And the east gully is fun in winter -- I'm sure it's been skied, but I'm suprised no one has done it and renamed it something more dramatic...

 

That huge rock gully? I don't think it's steep enough to warrant a scary name. The micro-gullies on the SE, now those might be something in the winter...

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Such hatred for Guye peak? I can't speak to the west face routes -- they all look nasty. But for a peak so close to the road it does have a lot to offer. Go explore the south facing routes. There are nice, long scrambles over there. And the east gully is fun in winter -- I'm sure it's been skied, but I'm suprised no one has done it and renamed it something more dramatic...

 

That huge rock gully? I don't think it's steep enough to warrant a scary name. The micro-gullies on the SE, now those might be something in the winter...

 

I'd disagree Justin...standard procedure is to ski/climb/etc. something and if it dosn't have a trip report on cc.com it MUST be the first ascent/descent/etc.!!! tongue.gifwink.gif In that case you get to give it a scary name.

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