specialed Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 The 2nd and 3rd can be strung together. But yeah technically the 3rd pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Wherz yer pictures? Â Here's a few: Â Â Gary leading the Lithuanian Lip. Â Â Â Ania jugging past the Lithuanian Lip. Â Â Â Ania at the hook move on pitch 3. Â Â Â The hammered-in nut on pitch 3. Â Â Â The copperhead with a tied cable. Â Â Â Gary stemming on pitch 6. Â Â Â Inverted cam left by a previous party. We cleaned it [and it held body-weight] -- it's pretty mangled. Â Â Â Crowded belay higher up. Shadow of the Early Winter Spires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Nice pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 Good work both groups! Sweet route!  Fox is right: one shouldn’t have to bust any free moves on 2 and 3, but I would recommend pulling as many as possible especially if you are trying to climb it in a day as it will greatly speed things up. The crack leading up to the lip as well as above the lip is easily freed and the start to pitch 3 has some free moves one can pull that actually eliminate the need to hang from mangy fixed gear.  Regarding hook moves: you shouldn’t need to do any (minus cam hooks). If you do either you need to top step or bring a larger selection of small gear. I did this route before zeros and offsets existed (in fact I didn’t own aliens at the time) and didn’t have any problem (or had to pull out the hooks which I brought the first time just to be safe).  Other pitches to run together: climb as far past the dihedral pitch (pitch 8 if one doesn’t run 6 and 7 together or any other pitch for that matter) as your rope allows into the 5.7 ledge pitch (unless you are hauling). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 Yeah, guess I'm a top-stepping weenie. I'm comfortable tensioning with the fifi through the gear placement, but having to tension with the fifi through the daisy scares me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larrythellama Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 everyone is a weenie if they dont free the lip or move right and do the "freedom or death" variation. Â c1 is for women. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 c1 is for women. Â Y chromosome getting in the way again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 c1 is for women.  And apparently C2 too, because my partner had no problems leading through those sketchy copperheads and the skyhook move.  What's with you jackasses? Not too long ago, I was climbing with a guy who was complaining how he won't climb with any women because they are slow and weak. A woman who had climbed The Nose overheard him and gave him a piece of her mind.  Oh yeah, and my mom can whoop your ass at math any day of the week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 Â Oh yeah, and my mom can whoop your ass at math any day of the week. Â BAHAHAHAH! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
counterfeitfake Posted July 11, 2007 Share Posted July 11, 2007 yeah total burn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourteenfour Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 don't leave the water! I desperately need to do this route.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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