Sleeveless Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Planning to do a carry-over on Logan next week. Up Douglas Gl and over to Fremont. Looking for info on descent onto Fremont. Thinking should take several raps (as will be doning heavy packs). Is getting to proper notch straightforward, coming from the E? Any pics would be ideal. Couldn't find any on Summitpost. Thanks in advance Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Actually a 3rd/4th class ramp runs from below the Logan summit down to Fremont glacier. Was able to down climb it with monster heavy packs on during my first NOLS course (80 lbs). I have some pics buried somewhere at home, but the ramp is fairly obvious. FYI Going from Douglas/Banded glacier col up (great camp spot by the way) to summit is steep and if glacier is melted out will require some technical leading. Let me know if I can be more specific and could you please take a bunch of pics of Thunder for me? I'll buy you a roll of film if you do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeveless Posted July 28, 2004 Author Share Posted July 28, 2004 Sounds like the ramp you're talking about is very obvious. Cool! As per the Douglas/Thunder col camp, oh yeah have that on the radar, depends on how far we get from Arriva. Will hopefully have camera, if so will take a bunch fer ya! Recently lost ours on Robinson, last month. So somewhere on that shiiiiiiitty choss heap lie a Digital Nikon btw, v familiar with NOLS style heavy ass pack, as I've been crushed by their loads on several occasions. First my PNW course in 89 and Denali in 00! Thanks again Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Descent is straight forward . No need to rap. Which way are you going out? The thunder cr bridge is out and the Stehikin is out do to washout as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeveless Posted July 29, 2004 Author Share Posted July 29, 2004 Going in Easy Pass and out Cascade .. making it a traverse. Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Going in to the Douglas via Easy Pass? It's not too bad a trip, head down Fischer Creek until you're near the stream coming out of the Douglas Glacier cirque. Cross Fischer Creek, stay on the left side of the DG cirque stream. It gets slowly more dense until you come out into a basin below a first headwall. Basin is alder filled, but not too bad. Make for a bear trail just left of the waterfall (avoid the slope right of the waterfall - horizontal slide alder hell) which leads steeply into the next basin. To get up the next headwall, take a brushy ramp that runs up and right from right of center, will get you up to the snow directly below thunder peak in a non-technical outing, and probably no harder than BW-2+. Heading around left around the big buttress on Thunder gets you onto the Douglas Glacier, and voila! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeveless Posted August 3, 2004 Author Share Posted August 3, 2004 Why not hump up to ridge (due W) from Fisher Pass (bush wack), and I hear great camp sites, then down following ridge - Douglas Gl. I hear this var works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 That is the way I did; highly recommended... Douglas is generally dry glacier by this time of year so bring your pons... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 3, 2004 Share Posted August 3, 2004 That is the way I did; highly recommended... Douglas is generally dry glacier by this time of year so bring your pons... nols, how are da cracks when the glacier is dry? From a distance with a big ass zoom lens (yes, not good beta at all) the thing looks rather tame. I take it that other glacier, whateva it's called isn't as casual? thanks man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Your zoom lens is correct; the cracks are super tame. There are a few that one needs to end run, but all in all a very tame dry glacier. FYI: NOLS courses generally use some of the bigger crevasses as ice climbing intro. If you sleep on the Douglas it will sound like you are next to a river due to the large amount of water running underneath the glacier. The volume will surprise you... In regard to crampons you won't need them down on the tame portion of the glacier (the part I am guessing you looked at), but coming down from the col there generally are a few icy spots you might want them for. I can dig out my pics ( my teenage years!) and scan them if you would like to see some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeveless Posted August 12, 2004 Author Share Posted August 12, 2004 Depending on the time of year and where you come up the slabby rock you'll need pons .. as everything you want to step on is ice. The snow (white), was v evidently bridges .. V easy navigating .. gray (firn/ice) white - snow bridge/crevasse. As of 2 days ago, Douglas Gl is in, but not for long! Major end running. Banded looked OUT down lower. Fremont looked doable, viewing from the summit. The 'whack out Fisher (Douglas Drainage) MAJORLY SUCKS - this time o year (BW3+), as came in traversing via Arriva! E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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