skyclimb Posted July 25, 2004 Share Posted July 25, 2004 Climb: Old Desolate-South face(hang dog ally) [FA] Date of Climb: 7/24/2004 Trip Report: The black denotes scree sloggin' blue is 3rd class polished andesite that is continous and very solid magenta is 4th class Red is as Alan Kearney would say "5th ish" slab climbing The magenta is 4th to the top with bush pulling I haven't heard or seen any other reports of this huge slab ever being climbed. Anyway you cut it, it is a fun route that allowed me to find deep mental focus. There are no cracks, so it must be free-soloed. I also found that rock shoes didn't work due to grit on the slabs. The approach is either via itsup creek(8 miles), or sunrise(8 miles) to Mystic lake. From Mystic lake this 1300 ft face is facing you(south). From the route views are bountiful to the nearby willis wall and liberty ridge. Also note that there is a more sustained, and probably more technical line to the left(west), that I assume hasn't been done either. Hang Dog Ally Grade: II, low 5th slab, no protection (there are more pics in the gallery of different angles) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted July 29, 2004 Share Posted July 29, 2004 On-sight, free-solo, first ascent. Fugggggg yeah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daveLok Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 skyclimb, do you know if there is a regular trail which goes to the top of old desolate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted August 9, 2004 Author Share Posted August 9, 2004 Do the south-face shown above, walk off via the southwest ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obsydian Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 skyclimb, do you know if there is a regular trail which goes to the top of old desolate? There is no trail, but several ways to get to the top. I was just out there this Labor Day weekend, we went right up the South rib off the Wonderland Trail (after scrambling Mineral), stayed a bit to the right until we got to the ridge proper, then ran the ridge staying on or just to the West of the ridge all the way to the summit, the ridge is a boulder hop, very nice views. Register has few names. You can also start up the valley to the West of the ridge, run up the valley as far as you can, then up the scree field to the summit. Good option is to continue on North to Vernal Park, then up the Crescent/Sluiskin col, down to Windy Gap and out the Northern Loop trail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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