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randygoat

[TR] worth the trip?- 7/22/2004

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Climb: worth the trip?-

 

Date of Climb: 7/22/2004

 

Trip Report:

I'm sure it is worth while , but is the ice out in Washington reliable enough to be worth a visit from the East? Or is it one of those you just got to be around at just the right time thing? Havn't heard much about water ice climbing in the Northwest.Just as a guide line of if there are enough routes to be worthwhile,[?] I lead WI 4-4+.Thanks

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We do have a Washington Ice guide, but the majority of the routes in it dont come in and when they do they suck. If you want to go to the northwest and ice climb fly to seattle rent a car and drive to banff. Or better yet fly to Calgary.

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If you are going to Washington anyway, it might be worth bringing Ice gear just in case something is in. But if you are planning an ice trip I would choose:

 

1. Banff, Alberta

2. Cody, Wy

3. Lilooet, BC (check conditions)

4. Bozeman, Mt.

5. Somewhere, Colorado

6. Lee Vining, Ca

7. Washington

 

in that order...

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Thanks Banff,Cody and Colorado are trips I was planning at somepoint. Particularly Cody/hyalite Canyon ,hopefully this winter.

 

Alpine Dave and Speacialed, I hear you bastards on protecting to sanctity of local ice. Keeps the tourists at bay. evils3d.gifbigdrink.gif

Edited by randygoat

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Alpine Dave and Speacialed, I hear you bastards on protecting to sanctity of local ice. Keeps the tourists at bay. evils3d.gifbigdrink.gif

 

I've seen some of what they are protecting. Take my word and head for Canada, Montana, or Colorado.

 

The ice here is elusive, and often snow-covered munge. Fat and blue is elsewhere...

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Alpine Dave and Speacialed, I hear you bastards on protecting to sanctity of local ice. Keeps the tourists at bay. evils3d.gifbigdrink.gif

 

I've seen some of what they are protecting. Take my word and head for Canada, Montana, or Colorado.

 

The ice here is elusive, and often snow-covered munge. Fat and blue is elsewhere...

 

We have some reliable ice,though ussually too short , stuff real local to me that is pretty good,some great. Less than an hours drive for most of it. Then 2+ hours away it gets real good,just allways into checking out other areas if they are worthwhile. Never heard of the Northwest as an ice climbers destination area,figured there was a reason for it. Thanks for the info though. bigdrink.gif

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6. Lee Vining, Ca

7. Washington

 

in that order...

 

The Adirondacks, Lake Willougby & New Hampshire have better & more consistent ice than 6 & 7 and are driving distance for Mr Goat.

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Hey Randygoat, it is somewhat true that there isn't much ice here. I moved here last year from Maine and there isn't as much ice as New England and it is not as consistent as New England. Have you been to the Dacks, Willowbouy, Catskills, North Conway area, Baxter State Park in Maine for destination ice places out there. For bigger stuff check out that area that houses the La Pomme d'OR awesome area and long routes, I jsut forget the name of that valley. Also there has been a lot of climber making there way up to Labrador, I here some really long lines going in up there and no crowds. For the West side go to Bannf area.

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Hey yeah, the NorthEast has excellent ice for sure, the Catskills are a casual day trip and the 'Dacks are also a long day trip but tolerable. I usually get in atleast 50 days or more of ice climbing staying mostly local. I just would like to check out some other regions, like Cody and Banff. I am blessed to have half decent stuff only about 25 minutes away that I can hit after work allmost any day in season.

 

yeah Ken, La Pomme d'Or is way impressive, and probably out of my leauge. The are some easier routes at Malbie though. I hit all the places you have mentioned often , except Baxter. That may happen this winter if I don't go out west. Cilley-Barber looks pretty nice.:)

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Id agree with what alot of you have said.

 

My list would be something like

 

Banff

New England

Cody

Maybe Hyalite depending on what time of year

Maybe Colorado if I had alot of cash to rent a car or just wanted to hang at Ouray

 

Lillooet, Washington, Lee Vining are all pretty much "locals" areas (IMO) and don't really register as "destination climbing areas"

 

just .02

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If you are going to Washington anyway, it might be worth bringing Ice gear just in case something is in. But if you are planning an ice trip I would choose:

 

1. Banff, Alberta

2. Cody, Wy

3. Lilooet, BC (check conditions)

4. Bozeman, Mt.

5. Somewhere, Colorado

6. Lee Vining, Ca

7. Washington

 

in that order...

 

 

Where would Valdez Alaska fit on the list?

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Ah yes, I believe Alaska does belong on the list, but I don't know much about the water ice climbing up there, so I wouldn't know where to put it. My friend who lived there for a while said everything was very big.

 

Alex,

Not sure if you have spent much time at Hylite Canyon, but in my opinion, when Lilooet is in good shape it has more and better routes then Hylite does, by far.

 

Of course you wouldn't fly to Lee Vining from New England, I was just illustaring that I'd rather go ice climbing at Lee Vining then Washington...unless Drury was in that is.

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assuming your going to spend/need at least a month in the NW chasing after/waiting for the 'elusive' beast may i suggest an alternate worthy trip.

 

Drive/Fly out to Colorado

 

Stop #1

Ouray Ice Park: 'Countless' WI 4-5 lines. Gets you warmed up for the wild west.

 

Head West to Utah

 

Stop #2

Joes Valley Utah: Climb killer 1-3 pitch roadside ice in the morning and wip out the shoes for an afternoon bouldering session in the (guaranteed) sun. Usually a skiff of snow in the shade, and no crowds.

 

Stop #3

MAPLE CANYON Utah: The proving grounds (also my favorite ice climbing haunt). Gape at the numerous unrepeated 200 foot single pitch WI 6-7+ lines. Best location anywhere for honing in on your thin/technical WI 4-4+. Advice: Bring a heafty set of stubbies and screamers and 60m ropes.

 

Stop #4

Santaquin Canyon Utah: Best ice Utah has to offer, IMO. Ice is typically as blue as Elliots Left Hand, but unfortunately there are only two (albeit very worthy) lines that are WI 4-4+ the rest is 5 or greater or mixed.

 

Head North

 

Stop 5#

Provo Canyon Utah: Stairway to Heaven and environs. Avoid the weekends.

 

 

Stop #6

Ski Alta

 

Head up into Wyoming

 

Stop #7 (a vacation destination in itself)

Cody Wyoming: The best ice offering in the lower 48, IMO.

 

Now your warmed up for the show.

 

Stop #8

The Canadian Rockies...Ice Mecca!

 

IMO, make quick business with the ice in the lower 48, then spend the rest of your time (and future) ice climbing vacations in the canadian rockies!

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Depending where "out east" is a trip to the South shore of lake superior would be a great trip. Mid to late Jan is typically the best time of year. moslty all single pitch stuff but you can do 20-30 routes in 2-3 days there.

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