ALPINE SPORT ROUTES?

[Guest]

Does anyone know of some longer sport routes (3-12 pitches) in the state? An alpine setting would be preferable too. I feel like taking on something a little longer and more scenic.

[AlpineK]

North Norwegian Buttress

[DPS]

North Face of Mt Baring, Vanishing Point. East Face of South Early Winter Spire, Nothing. Route between Lib Crack and Thin Red Line on Lib Bell. Goat Wall, Methow Inspiration. Condor Buttress, Condormorphine Addiction.

 

[ 08-06-2002, 07:39 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

[richard_noggin]

Sport routes in an alpine setting

whooooo let the spray begin!!

A lot of route setters don't put up sport routes in alpine settings because of the flack they will have to endure,but hey i will climb them if they are there

[mattp]

I'm sure you are aware of this, but I feel compelled to note that I've seen people who go from 80 foot sport climbs to longer routes and assume that they can play by the same rules. Last summer, in fact, I had to perform a hasty examination and firemen's lower on a slab route up at Darrington because a woman fell and hit her head and her partners, although quite capable as climbers, were unable to, or at least in the immediate aftermath were too freaked out to perform a basic first aid assessment and set up a self-rescue.

 

As you get more than a half rope-length from the ground, be sure you are ready to extricate yourself should things not turn out as you expect - and be ready for a turn of the weather.

[Matt_Anderson]

While some people may characterize many of these as "sport routes" beware of the following b/f you do them if your definition of sport route comes from the gym.

 

North Face of Mt Baring, Vanishing Point.

 

Most of it is bolted, but you must be able to climb mid to upper 5.11 (at least) on gear. Furthermore, logistics of getting there, committment and some objective hazards from the present approach due to rock fall make this more than just a sport route. Finally, there are some 40 foot runouts on some of the easier spots, these would definitely be don't fall areas.

 

Route between Lib Crack and Thin Red Line on Lib Bell.

If your talking about freedom or death, half is bolted, half is gear. Regardless, at the end of the fourth pitch, you would either have to rap or climb trad the rest of the way.

 

Goat Wall, Methow Inspiration. These are the true sport routes - the best one is not in the guide book. Search old posts for mazama and goat and you'll find references worth checking out.

[rr666]

I would not think that alpine climbs could be considered sport routes. There may be bolted alpine climbs, but they are by no means sport climbs. Somewhere there is a line as far as how long the climb is, how far of hike in (we all know sport climbers do not like to hike ). Any thoughts on this? I would not consider any of Darrington's bolted routes sport climbs...

 

[Dru]

Sisyphus Summits - North Face of Ha Ling. (Canmore).

 

Real sport climbing with 25m "pitches" and bolts 3m apart.

[Dwayner]

ALPINE SPORT ROUTES????

 

THE WHOLE CONCEPT MAKES ME WANT TO PUKE!!!!

 

I'M SERIOUS.

[Matt]

On my last hike into Prusik some people asked me if the "clips" were already in place. They looked at me in horror when I said no.

[sayjay]

OMFG that's hysterical ....

 

then again, maybe it's just really scarry

[Lambone]

Dwayner,

 

Didn't you just do Dreamer recently? Doesn't it have a bunch of bolts on it? Is that route better than a typical long sport route because it has cracks as well? Fess up dude, you went sport climbing...what gives man, when will you start practicing what you preach?

[DavidW]

Twenty-five years ago (before sport climbing was invented) a coupla guys went up there (Dreamer) and drilled those bolts on the lead........ by hand. On a route rated 5.9 there are 25' runouts on 5.8, this is absolutely not a sport route. The line may be blurry with some modern routes but it certainly isnt with regard to the Dreamer.

[texplorer]

Aren't sport climbers comfortable with 50ft runouts? I thought Dreamer was a great sport route.

[Dwayner]

Hey Lambone....so you're back to your old ways and want to pick a fight, eh? (And I thought I was being a nice guy for holding back on your Glacier Peak fiasco!)

So here it is, Jack-Donkey. I've been "clipping bolts" back when you were still peeing in your pull-ups. A number of the classic climbs in places such as Joshua Tree and even our own Peshastin Pinnicles are bolt reliant. I don't consider many of these to be sport-climbs. See below.

Sport-climbing as I define it, involves, and depends upon gratuitous bolting. With standards that accept hang-dogging, repetitive rehersal, "red-pointing/pink-pointing", and an ignorance of crack climbing, etc., the practice of indiscriminate bolt placement (including rap-bolting and grid-bolting and bolting next to cracks)has become the status quo amongst those "climbers".

This is all old stuff that you should know.

 

I am not anti-bolt...I am against their abuse which is rampant and institutionalized in sport-climbing.

A traditional approach which I subscribe to requires that the choice to place each bolt is an ethical decision. As such, they should be few (which often means widely spaced)and preferably placed on lead.

 

I don't consider Dreamer to be a "sport climb". The cracks alone take it out of that league. MattP was quite interested in my opinion on whether I felt the bolts on that route and its neighbor, "Safe Sex", were judicious or not. I found that unlike sport-bolted climbs, these bolts were placed on lead and suitable intervals to make the climbing interesting if not serious.

 

Lambone...after a week of well-deserved humility you seem back to your juvenile ways. Practice what I preach?...apparently you have forgotten my sermon. If you can't handle my opinion, which has been hashed out over and over and over again (did you lose your memory in that tent?), then too bad. Arguing with you is generally a huge waste of time...Unless I'm really bored...like right now.

[Lambone]

[chucK]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dwayner:

I don't consider Dreamer to be a "sport climb". The cracks alone take it out of that league. MattP was quite interested in my opinion on whether I felt the bolts on that route and its neighbor, "Safe Sex", were judicious or not. I found that unlike sport-bolted climbs, these bolts were placed on lead and suitable intervals to make the climbing interesting if not serious.

---

Are all the bolts on the current incarnations of Dreamer and Safe Sex put in on lead? I believe that the original Dreamer was bolted on lead, but it is my understanding that several bolts have been added to that line. Was any of Safe Sex bolted on lead?

[Dwayner]

I see we're back to Romper Room again after a few months of relief.

Lambone...I liked you better when you were groveling, thoughtful and kind of nice...probably so did a lot of other people. You turned a miserable defeat into a overwhelming outpour of sympathy...yep, you even had me going there for awhile. You should have rode that wave, pal...cuz it now seems like the 'ol miserable Bone is back...unteachable (this bolt "debate" is ancient), unoriginal (you can't even come up with your own picture of a kid puking - no this isn't an invitation..you had your chance) and barking up the wrong tree (arguing with Dwayner and his pals...but we can arrange another "ignore the Bone boycott if you like).

So have a hap...hap....happy day.

[Guest]

Thanks for the responses all. I now have several possible routes to choose from and a great Alpine Sport partner to clip with: Dwayner

Just for the record (if anyone here keeps a record) this was not a troll or an attempt to start BOLT WARS.

[richard_noggin]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MF206er:

Thanks for the responses all.

Just for the record (if anyone here keeps a record) this was not a troll or an attempt to start BOLT WARS.

---

Cool

[Peter_Puget]

Index has a bunch of multi-pitch sport routes and I am sure Squamish must have a bunch too (besides the Black Dike that is ). Dru start spraying!

[Dru]

but those aren't alpine.

 

did you know there is a UIAA resolution that peaks over 2500 meters should be a bolt free zone?

[Peter_Puget]

True Dru! But the only mandatory condition was 3-6 pitches alpine was merely an added bonus. Beside the views from the Upper Wall and The Chief can be pretty scenic too.

[Dru]

well the black dyke still requires gear... there is no route on the chief that is a pure multipitch sport route - either runouts are too large (eg. war of the raptors, rock loggers etc.) or you need to place gear. hell even cerberus needs gear for the flake and approach.

 

Star Chek in Cheakamus Canyon is a 3 pitch 5.8 sport route with nice views of the canyon though. Fred Beckey likes it so much he's done it 3 times!

[Peter_Puget]

I am going to have to break out that darn McKlane guide I see for myself but I am betting you are right. By the way that select guide rules!!!

 

Well here's a two pitch: Java Jive (with one cam!)