glassgowkiss Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Climb: WA ice guide misinfo- Date of Climb: 7/21/2004 Trip Report: hey, yes i am slow and just opened up wa state ice guide. i would like to get a couple of things straight, as i think they are quite important facts. Pyramid peak- the name of the route is "It ain't over motherfuckers". second the route is on east face not on north face - see the picture. also before you go and traverse the ramp for two pitches you must climb a nasty little section of WI3. as far as the route on Colflax, i think the rating is off. the route should be more like WI4/4+, not 5/5+. the pro was kind of sucky, but in my opinion technical rating should not reflect seriuosness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Nice line. So are you gonna hit the obvious series of runnels to the right of your original line this Winter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 is the north face the same steepness as the east face (can't tell from angle). The runnels looks neat poking out on the N.F. but it looks pretty low angled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 27, 2004 Share Posted July 27, 2004 I dont know what the book calls it, but if your goal is to get published they aren't going to print something like that obviously. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted July 27, 2004 Author Share Posted July 27, 2004 the name was published and the point is misprinted. same withe the N. face instead of east. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 Robert, I will take care of your corrections for the next edtion. We published the name as "It Ain't Over Yet, Motherfuckers" I think...? We got it pretty close...? Michael, N F Ruch Cotter is not quite as steep as E Face. You can always submit corrections directly to me and Jason here: http://www.wastateice.net/default.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 Alex, I am surprised they didn't care about the motherfuckers in there. They were cool with anything I take it? I've seen other guidebooks "censored" and thought it was stupid but just the way it was... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted July 30, 2004 Share Posted July 30, 2004 You shouldnt be so surprised. The Mountaineers Books *are* actually tied to a climbing organization, and as such are not quite so uptight as to worry about a foul word or two buried somewhere in 60,000+ words. The publishers were very agreeable about route names in general Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted August 2, 2004 Author Share Posted August 2, 2004 Alex, i did send this to your web page right now. a couple of smaller notes. first of all i think areas like Colonial peak or Pyramid are the best with as little snow as possible- hence they are rather early season routes. I would like to see some of them repeated more often. personally i don't think any of them are that hard and any climber who is proficient with WI4/5 can climb these things without any problems. under right conditions they can be fun, moderate and good training routes for bigger ranges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain panther Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 bob, have you been missin out on sheep love lately? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourteenfour Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 makes sense... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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