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007_dup1

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Inthe DEATH ZONE, altitude will build up in the body until death occurs. Hence the name.

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tippy top??? rolleyes.gif

 

The "Seven Tippy-Tops" just doesn't roll off the tongue like the "Seven Summits", now does it?

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I think that the idea of aclimitizating by drinking beer in Leadville will work great. You could also trick your body into thinking it is higher than the 10,500 ft. of Leadville by smoking. This an advanced altitudimizating technique wich I'm sure is not practiced by those lame PAY-TO-CLIMB companies. Good luck on Cho Oye-como-va.

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Might fly our group to Denver for a power weekend with 2 or 3 "altitude climbs" just before this. Suggestions welcome.

 

 

I've "heard" that Pikes Peak would be good. It would have the added attraction that:

 

A) You can race up to the very tippy top via an Automobile. (Your target of 2-3 climbs could then be reached in your "power" weekend through the use of the car)

 

B) Buffalo Bill is buried there, so you can sightsee as well to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

 

Apologies to the birds. tongue.gif

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B) Buffalo Bill is buried [on Pikes Peak]....

 

Dude,

That is totally not true. As part of my research toward my PhD in altitudazamazization, I lived on the summit of PP for a summer and I didn't see Wild Billy's grave anywhere, nor have I ever heard of him being buried there. rolleyes.gif Sheesh! Way to diseminate bad beta! You probably got 007's hopes up too. Shame on you. hellno3d.gif

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AF are you confusing Wild Bill Horsecock with Buffalo Bill Cody? It doesn't really matter. I don't think either of them are buried at the high altitude aclimitizazation center on the tippy top of Pikes Peak.

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Fox, how dare you show up with facts!

 

However, you ARE correct! Dohh.!! It is "Lookout mountain" near Golden Colo. which has the famed explorers grave, I stand corrected. As this is also car and wheelchair accessable, perhaps 007 may wish to make this the 2nd acclimazation climb of the trip?

 

http://www.buffalobill.org/

 

Furthermore, Coors beer is made from the Pisswater running out of Denver right there in Golden as well, so that can be the 3rd sightseeing trip for our intreped explorers as it can be reached by car as well after a short hike through the parking lot at Coors.

 

May I finsih by saying that if those others can make the ascent of "Rum Doodle" successfully, despite all the drawbacks and roadblocks placed in their way (like lack of foresight, creativity, planning and intellegence)that these guys have a chance as well on Cho Oyo.

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tippy top??? rolleyes.gif

 

The "Seven Tippy-Tops" just doesn't roll off the tongue like the "Seven Summits", now does it?

yellaf.gif

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Furthermore, Coors beer is made from the Pisswater running out of Denver right there in Golden as well, so that can be the 3rd sightseeing trip for our intreped explorers as it can be reached by car as well after a short hike through the parking lot at Coors..

 

The question is, could our intrepid explorer stumble on a certain club's library in Golden?

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First of all, Stefan, thank you for giving me at least some credit for knowing a bit about 8,000m peaks.

007 I do not want to sound pessimistic about your chances,

after all anything is possible, but here are few things that make me think CAUTION !

1,You have yet to came clean and let us know what you have done in the mountains.

2,Reading this section I see, you are assuming a lot of things. For example, you write about a class 2 climbing

on the easiest 26,000ers. Well, its much harder than you think, examples Cho Oyu: at 6,850m serac is near vertical

for 50-70 m depending on the season ( I know it,s fixed most of the time )combination altiude+difficulty+heavy pack.Then higher up above C-3 you have yellow band ( 5th class or do a long d-tour ) and 3rd class rock bands higher up,again depends on season and snow cover.

Shishapangma, everyone thisks its no more than 40% angle

walk up, wrong!! please see attachement photo, that,s the last pitch to the summit and it,s at least 65 % angle.

Same on G-II, the easiest route is rated AD+ with sustained

difficulty between C-1 and C-3 (ask Steffan, he knows )

3,Then you ask questions You should know already at this

stage of planning, like acclimatisation.

4,The world of Himalayan climbing is a bit more fucked-up

than you think, between shitty or fraudulent trekking agencies," leaders like Dan Mazur, Chineese officials,

it,s a loot that can go wrong, a loot, and that,s at a time

when you need to concentrate on acclimatisation and climbing.

5, For the past 2 years I tried to organise an expedition

usung CC and other sites and failed despite being much more up front than you are. I don,t see this imossible,

but at least not likely.

6, For people to join your expedition they have to have a total trust in not only your climbing expirience but also

in your finances as well as organisational skills.

7, I see you want to do this cheaply and I,m not certain if that,s the way to go for someone with questionable expirience ( as I see you )I suggest you start looking for

an expedition already forming and with greater expedition expirience than your own.

Marek

5a1a55b5ddab9_381759-ShishNeartheSummit7900m.JPG.49652ab33483c2295e8a3fdadc5e39bf.JPG

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...

Furthermore, Coors beer is made from the Pisswater running out of Denver right there in Golden as well, so that can be the 3rd sightseeing trip for our intreped explorers as it can be reached by car as well after a short hike through the parking lot at Coors.

 

I don't think 007 will approve of those PAY TO DRINK establishments.

 

Didn't you see his/her previous post?:

As for the Coors Brewery, why pay $16 for pitcher services that would normally be cheaper than average in a 3rd world grocery store? Why do they claim to be associated with so many associations? Are these their selling points? It is still overpriced, someone could hire a 21yo homeless guy, eat 3 hot meals per day, and use the local transportation for like $10/pitcher. People are being mislead into thinking big drinking is big bucks, I say BS! ..by the way what is etcetera?

 

Anyone can set up a brewery and a claim a BS safety record. They can charge drinkers whatever they feel they can get away with, upwards of $65 right? When the weather rolls in or the ice decides to let loose, then it is when the true follow-the-leader game begins! Did i miss something? What happen to the true expiditions? Are peoples' balls get smaller as a whole?

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Thanx Marek for your detailed response. This information is helping us plan our 8000m Cho Oyu climb in spring 2005.

 

C-2 climbing will be the length of the climb and these 10 to 50 degree pitches here in the Cascades are working excellent for conditioning.

 

The one snow-step between camp II and III is 40m vertical in springtime. The high altitude serpas we hire at $100/day will jerk us up this! (kidding) ...at least we can attach a fixed leg ladder and pulley.

 

The combination of altiude, difficulty, and a heavy pack is why we climb, am i right? (it's the CHALLENGE! hoorah!)

 

The NW ridge line route is what were planning with the major negotiation being the "step". Yes, the Cho Oyu mtn has some C-5 extra credit but our objective is strictly the summit.

 

Shishapangma, is still a walk around Central Park but with less people. This peak doesn't compare to G-II, do you agree Stefan?

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page 6 of this post, its time to re-state the trip objective:

 

This post is to find a few good climbers for an 8000m climb.

There is no discrimination but experience will be checked.

 

Interested climbers have responded with the desire to climb and summit Cho Oyu. This is a 1mo climb in the Himilayas in spring 2005. Our objective is strictly the 8000m summit, cheaply but safely.

 

The training is here in the Cascades, offering lots of cross training. Planning and training needed for this climb will be done with good judgement and regard to safety.

 

finally, YES it is possible to organize a climbing group like this on Cascade Climbers and summit an 8000m peak inexpensively!

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007, Do not think you can do this in a month, unless you

want to look stupid when you have to go home and summit is

far away. Allow at least 2 months SEA-SEA.

Lastly, where are you getting those $100 a day Sherpas ?

Are they Tibetans ? or Nepali ?, there is a huge difference! I never heared of a Sherpa for a day pay contract !

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Hey wait a second 007, you keep on talking about "our" trip and now your saying your still looking for climbers? huh? You mean with six pages of trolling material you haven't hooked one, damn dude. The 'No Pay to Climb Cho Oye Expedition 2005' sounds like its off to a great start, for all the logistical planning that is involved.

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I'm going to hijack 007's thread for a moment to advertise MY 'No Pay to Not Climb Cho Oyu Expedition 2005'. Come join my expedition where we won't pay shit and won't climb Cho Oyu next year. As you can guess, training for this expedition is minimal - adopt whatever training regimen you want, it'll work.

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OK. I'll handle not hiring the sherpas and arranging for the oxygen bottles to not be delivered to Katmandu.

 

Maybe we can get Annabelle to join our expedition!

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Great, A/F. Welcome aboard. Now we need someone to not plan all the food and packaging and shipping of same. Also, we're going to need someone to not research permits and not make contact with the proper Board of Tourism authorities.

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I want in. I will not arrange for the Sirdar and cook. I can also make sure that the liaison officer does not receive the required gear and payment for his services.

 

I think I might provide some beer at the next PC.

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Hmmm...fenderfour I'm not sure you're not qualified. Could you not provide a climbing resume of high altitude climbs you have not done? Don't take it personally, but I do not have the safety of the rest of the team in mind.

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Great I would like to not offer you the Assistant Expedition Leader position. Based on your non-experience, we think you will not do a great job for the team. thumbs_up.gif

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