alexbaker Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 I need info from anybody who has been up the kautz lately. Mainly, is the approach chute at to the left of the Nisqually melted out? If it is how have you been gaining the slopes to high camp? Also, is there any water ice forming in the main chute that would make technical crampons and/or ice screws necessary? Any helpful info is appreciated, if it sounds favorable i am going to try to head up there this weekend. Thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Yngve Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 PM Slothrop. He was up there this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted July 20, 2004 Share Posted July 20, 2004 We approached via Comet Falls TH and Van Trump Park, a scenic and less crowded way to go. Getting to high camp was easy snow slogging to a collection of smallish sites (our three-man tent just fit) on the west side of the Turtle at 10200'. We involved ourselves in no glacier travel shenanigans to get to camp. Â Rain and wind stopped our attempt Monday morning, but my partners stayed on for another go on Tuesday. So I dunno about conditions on the actual route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmarch Posted July 20, 2004 Share Posted July 20, 2004 the chute you are referring to was not melted out as of 7-11-04, but the lower section was going fast. we used 2 ice screws in the main route chute for running belays. This may or may not seem necessary based on your comfort level as there are some smallish crevasses on the lower pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wally Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 Had the same wonderful conditions on the emmons! Anyone make the summit that day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ananda Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 Are there any running water sources near the camps near the Turtle? Or should I prepare to melt snow and ice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 This link says yes, there is water... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 On the climbers left of the last rock buttress before you reach the turtle. Mini-waterfall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted July 21, 2004 Share Posted July 21, 2004 There's a small drip a few dozen yards west of the sites at 10200' on the Turtle's west side, but it's not as copious as the waterfall Jay mentions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forker Posted July 28, 2004 Share Posted July 28, 2004 We dug out this trickle (marked by a cairn), but when we came back from the summit push, we found the water had disappeared into the rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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