Szyjakowski Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Castle rock. the best crack in my little humble opinion. 9+ gear to 5-6" but you need tcus too. hand jams, chimney moves, fist jams even a finger lock or two. love it in the morn before the sun hits it.... then a quick dip in the tumwater... what a day!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 You are so right!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 gear to 3 maybe 3.5 for the fist crack leading to chimney, then small TCUs. Wasn't it rated 5.8 in the older 11worth guidebook? I've always thought it was a super good 5.8! Â Awesome route, its one I try to do a least once a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 18, 2004 Author Share Posted July 18, 2004 yeah maybe 5.8 g for grease. the fat cam is nice to get up to the tcus... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 (edited) Castle rock. the best crack in my little humble opinion. 9+ gear to 5-6" but you need tcus too. hand jams, chimney moves, fist jams even a finger lock or two. love it in the morn before the sun hits it.... then a quick dip in the tumwater... what a day!!!!!!!!!!!! Â I got to top rope on that once. it was soooooooooooooooo AWSOME Edited July 18, 2004 by Muffy_The_Wanker_Sprayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 smoot gives it a 5.8 too but he may have just been copying the older guide book grade. Felt like a nine to me. Kinda scary coming off that half way ledge even Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 19, 2004 Author Share Posted July 19, 2004 9 cuz the climbers who bolted ddd removed some fixed hardware (bolts and pitons from the FA) on the nearby crack system which is old skewl 5.8. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 Grease? you want to squeak about grease? get on Angel next door! Got to agree Damnation is one of the best around here in that 5.8 to .9 range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted July 19, 2004 Share Posted July 19, 2004 What? U guys use gear on that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted July 19, 2004 Author Share Posted July 19, 2004 gnibmilc-i have done angel a few times... the start to damn is somewhat slick, especially in the nice humid weather ltown had this past weekend. Â dick hows the weather in europe? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnibmilc Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 i know. i'm just a little chapped about falling off angel several times last weekend. i curse the slippery angel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted July 22, 2004 Share Posted July 22, 2004 Nicht schlecht. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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