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[TR] Torment-Forbidden Traverse 7/13-14/2004


DonnV

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Climb: Torment-Forbidden Traverse

 

Date of Climb: 7/13/2004

 

Trip Report:

I was about to post for a partner for something alpine this week when I saw that AaronB was looking for a Rainier partner. I countered with a suggestion of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse, he was game, so on Tuesday morning we were on our way up into Boston Basin for a 2-day trip, planning a bivy on the route. We missed the opening of the road by a couple of days, so we had an extra 2 1/2 miles of hiking to reach the trailhead. Low on the trail we encountered one pair who had bailed at the start of the traverse due to incoming weather. Shortly after we met another pair who had almost completed the traverse when a thunderstorm hit before dawn that morning, forcing them to descend without continuing up Forbidden. We knew some thunderstorms were forecast for midday, and while we were getting a bit of drizzle on the way in, we hoped that the worst of the weather had simply come through earlier than expected. That proved to be the case. The weather improved throughout the day and we enjoyed clear skies all afternoon.

 

We took a bit of time getting started on Torment's SE Face. There are a few options for how to leave the snow for the rock, and we may not have made the best choice. After 2 belayed 30m pitches we simulclimbed the rest of the largely 3rd and 4th class to the summit. A bit more confusion about where to get the traverse started cost us some more time, but we were eventually rapping down onto the north side glacier. The party from the previous day had made a second rap to clear a shrund as part of a long steep snow traverse before regaining the rock, and we decided to follow their tracks (another option would have been to make a rising traverse on rock to regain the crest earlier). At the second rap I demonstrated to Aaron how to avoid having to holster or stow your ice axe when rapping down steep snow. During my windup to toss the rap rope, I cleverly caught a loop of rope on my axe, which was planted behind me, and flung it skyward along with the rope. It gracefully spiraled up and out, catching serious air, and landed perfectly, spike first, almost exactly where the rap ended. I was about 15 feet short, but I'll do better next time. wink.gif

 

After finishing the snow traverse (which was probably nearly as steep as the later "crux" traverse), we climbed a solid and enjoyable rock rib back toward the crest. Near the top of the rib we found a comfortable bivy (mentioned in Nelson), but the views just weren't all that we had hoped for. I took a few minutes to explore and found a great spot on the crest with sensational views and we moved our gear to there for the evening. I had packed a cartridge stove for melting snow, so we were able to refill our water bottles while we sipped Aaron's port, smoked my cheap cigars, and enjoyed the last of the sun on Johannesburg and the sea of other peaks to the east. Fantastic place to spend a night.

 

The first obstacle in the morning was the crux steep snow traverse that bypasses the next section of the crest. The snow was fairly soft. We wore crampons, but I probably could have gone without. Wearing boots I found the traverse pretty straightforward. Aaron had opted for some lighter approach shoes for the entire trip, and as a result he was having a much harder time on any steep snow we encountered. But we were soon enough across that section and then quickly back up onto the crest where the real cruising starts. Very enjoyable ridge running most of the way to the base of Forbidden. The weather had been hazy and had become cloudier, but it was still ideal climbing weather.

 

We left our packs at the base of the West Ridge and started up just as a party of three was heading down the couloir. A short way up the ridge we met cc.com's own Winter and his wife (newlyweds!) on their way down. We continued simulclimbing to the top and, since it was later than we wished it was, spent just a few minutes there before starting back down the ridge. Lots of downclimbing and lots of raps put us back down on the glacier, a few hours later we were at the car drinking ice cold beer, and a few hours later yet we were back in Seattle.

 

This really is a great alpine outing. Lots of work! Incredibly scenic. This was the first time Aaron and I had climbed together, and it was a good idea for us to plan a bivy on the route. That removed any serious time pressures and allowed us to move fairly slowly and cautiously (each day was about 12 hours). Not to mention that the crest of the traverse ridge is a pretty awesome place to wake up in the morning!

 

Thanks to Aaron for a great climb. Thanks to Goatboy and others for beta. Thanks to those two guys that got stormed off for putting in a some steps we could use.

 

Some photos here and a few more in the gallery.

 

 

Aaron on the summit of Torment with the traverse to Forbidden in the background.

664AaronOnTorment-med.JPG

 

 

Aaron on the first steep snow traverse. This section can probably be avoided by a higher rock traverse back to the crest.

664AaronFirstSnow-med.JPG

 

 

Nice view to wake up to!

664ViewFromBivy-med.JPG

 

 

The rest of the traverse as seen from our bivy. The crux steep snow traverse is sunlit.

664TraverseFromBivy-med.JPG

 

 

Aaron happy to be back on the solid crest after the snow traverse.

664AaronAfterCrux-med.JPG

 

 

Aaron high on the West Ridge of Forbidden.

664AaronOnForbidden-med.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

1 60m half rope

crampons

2nd tools

4 small-medium stoppers, 4 small-medium hexes, 3 cams

6-7 single runners, 1 double

 

We simulclimbed most of the time on the doubled rope. We used our second tools on the steep snow traverse but definitely could have done without. I would bring a second tool only if it was later in the year, or if I was planning on again launching my ice axe in the rap line. smile.gif Aaron meant to bring 2-3 double slings, but somehow only brought one. I got back at him for that by forgetting to retrieve it as I left one of the rap stations. evils3d.gif

 

And if Aaron does this route again, I know he'll take real boots!

 

 

Approach Notes:

Road was closed for us for 2 1/2 miles but is now open.

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I've always wondered...why is it the standard route is to avoid the crest and instead do that lousy snow traverse? Is the ridge really impractical at that point? It seems like it would be more "pure" to stay on the ridge...that and I hate traversing steep snow.

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Great pictures of a great place.

 

Good beta on conditions too. We also ended up rapping over the schrund, it was GNARLY in July of 2003.

 

Two tools were nice for the steep snow, I thought. Crampons not needed when we did it, though if it froze hard the night before . . . .

 

Great work, Donn!

 

GB

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I've always wondered...why is it the standard route is to avoid the crest and instead do that lousy snow traverse? Is the ridge really impractical at that point? It seems like it would be more "pure" to stay on the ridge...that and I hate traversing steep snow.

Josh, I don't think staying on the crest at that point is at all impractical, and I'd guess it gets done that way often enough. It does look like it would be the hardest rock climbing of the route, though (maybe 5.8 or so??), and much more time consuming for most climbers. As far as keeping the route "pure," that's an interesting point. At the spot where you initially rap off of Torment onto the glacier, you're doing that to bypass what looks like a very tough section of the crest with some very steep gendarmes. I wondered at the time if anyone has ever tried that section directly. In any case, a pure crest climb would leave you with many more raps along the way to get off of even the minor towers that can otherwise be climbed around. But a pure crest climb might be an interesting objective.

 

Way cool. No pickets or flukes? Did you go bare on the steep snow traverse? I don't see any rope in the photo.

We decided that, with two tools, we'd go without pickets and probably go unroped. By the time we got there it was clear that Aaron's footwear was not the best for steep snow, so we tied in the rope full length. That left us both in a "one guy falls, two guys die" mode for about 50-100 feet of the traverse, but allowed me to belay Aaron for the last 200 feet. It would have made all the difference at that point to have had even one picket.

 

It's really hard to recommend what to take for that traverse. Very dependent on conditions and on one's comfort level with traversing steep snow.

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Great add'l photos, Aaron.

 

Yeah, regarding the picket or no picket question on a climb lik this where you are on rock for the vast majority, but there IS some steep, exposed snow -- how about taking just one simple deadman (fluke)? It's more compact than a picket, lighter, and easy to place in soft snow . . . but almost useless in hard snow.... Just a thought. I think if I were to do it again I'd just take one fluke, two tools, and a 60 Meter 8.5 mm rope, and a very small rack of rock gear with lots of slings for simulclimbing.

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DonnV-

 

Great to meet you guys up there. Kristin and I rested for a few days after the wedding and then headed to Mazama to stay in a friend's cabin via Leavenworth. Orbit - Beckey Route - W Ridge of Forbidden. Then left for the Bugs to hang with Shred and Mellsbells. Blew a clutch cable in Revelstoke. Got picked up by nice couple - stayed in their house. Now in hostel. Cable fixed this afternoon and then on way to Bugs. Weather has sucked anyway. Will be climbing again soon. bigdrink.gifbigdrink.gif

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