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james_e

cams and nuts

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just gettin started on some trad stuff. anyone have any recommendations for good value cam and nut sets? i'm thinkin maybe some robots? cant be terribly expensive. include links too if you can. thanks.

-james

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Singles in hand sizes in the best cams that you can afford. Double your coverage in hand sizes with hexes. Cover the rest with 1-2 sets of nuts, and add some tricams in the sizes between hands and fingers for a bonus.

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I would get a set of Black Diamond or Wild Country nuts. I have used both and have not noticed a big difference, except the BD have a few smaller sizes that you will not likely use.

 

Consider getting Wild Country forged Friends in the hand and fist sizes. They are among the most durable and best built units out there, not to mention the lightest and least expensive.

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Not to spray, but keep a couple spots on the rack for a new Link Cam. Check them out the Omega site later today for new info. Not available yet, but soon.....

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I like the ABC Huevos. They seem easier to place and clean, for some reason (maybe because the advertising says so). I've used BD & have a set of Wild Country nuts, but I like the ABC's the best.

 

Don't cheap out on cams, dude.

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What does everyone here have against robots??? They're cheap, light, have that handy extendable sling, and saved my sorry ass just fine. thumbs_up.gif

Also, as a person with small hands I find cams with a U-shaped stem that can be retracted with 1 finger easier to work with than the kind with a single stem.

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If I had to rebuild my rack starting from scratch, I would get:

 

BD Camalots 0.5, 0.75, 1.0, 2.0, 3.0

Metolius big cams 9,10 or possibly forged friends (much lighter than camalots)

Metolius TCUs 0, 1.0, 2.0

WC Zero Cam Z2, Z3, Z4

Alien Cam Blue

1 set of WC stoppers (first choice)

1 set of BD stoppers (second choice)

Camp Tricam 0.5, 1.0

Maybe a couple of Loweballs

A few hexes in the wide fingers to wide hands size

I'd rack it all on Doval biners (lightweight, multifunctional)

 

Santa, are you reading this?

 

 

and you absolutely MUST get the BLACK DIAMOND nut tool. There is no substitute because only the BD has a built in beer opener.

 

bigdrink.gif

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dude you can open a beer with an oval - pfft why do you need a nut tool

 

and you need the z5 and z6 zero cam then you will not need the metolius 1 and 2

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yeah I have two yellow TCUs and since i got the Z6 i hardly place either one anymore

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still useful for aid climbing but i will trade you two yellow tcu for two z6's!

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actually i have a salewa brand nut tool that also has a buolt in beer opener.

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just gettin started on some trad stuff. anyone have any recommendations for good value cam and nut sets? i'm thinkin maybe some robots? cant be terribly expensive. include links too if you can. thanks.

-james

 

Check out this thread on cams.

 

Cam thread

 

wave.gif

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A different opinion:

 

Aliens blue thru Purple

Camalots-#1 #2 #3 (#3.5 sometimes)

DMM walnuts and peanuts- better than any other stoppers!

Petzl Rockpecker/Mad Rock hangers- anything a peanut won't fit in.

 

Those Zero things are "toys".

 

bigdrink.gif

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dude you can open a beer with an oval - pfft why do you need a nut tool

 

and you need the z5 and z6 zero cam then you will not need the metolius 1 and 2

 

i can open a beer with a rock. bigdrink.gif

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up in northern bc once

i saw this guy pop out his glass eye

and open a beer in his socket! shocked.gif

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Heres a question. Considering most of us are broke SOB's what order would you suggest building your rack in order to devolop aleast a minimally useful rack for cheep ie one full set of chocks, hexes numbers (somthing through somthing) some tricams(maybe?) and so on?

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If I was broke:

1 set BD stoppers(#3-13)

Tricams( pink, Red, Brown)

Forged Friends(1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4)

 

Then when more money comes in start getting

TCU's and BD's.

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If I had limited resources, I would buy in the following order:

 

1 set BD or Smiley stoppers(#4-11)

BD or Metolius Hexes (#4,6,8,10)

Forged Friends(2, 2.5, 3)

Camp Tricams( pink, Red, Brown)

Forged Friends(1.5, 3.5, 4)

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Chances are that if you don't have a rack that you are a beginner. A full set of forged freinds and one sett of stoppers (they all work pretty good, mostly it is personal preference) will get you up most easy routes. When you have the money, get another full set of cams of your preference, I have a bunch of different kinds, including metolious, BD, wild country (forged and technical), and some old trango and spider cams and they all work pretty good.

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