CJ Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 (edited) Climb: Forbidden Peak-West Ridge Date of Climb: 7/16/2004 Any good/recent beta out there on the condition of the following for the West Ridge route?: 1. the cascade river road (still closed at mp 19.5?) 2. the trail from the road to Boston Basin 3. the condition of the snow gully up to the ridge (how's the 'shrund?) Also, I've read plenty of opinions on which decent is better, but which would be safer? And, two ropes vs. one rope? Lastly, which do you like better: day 1: car to boston basin day 2: boston basin to peak back to basin to car or day 1: car to boston basin, drop of camping crap, to peak, back to basin day 2: basin to car. We're doin it in two days, so no need to give me the "dude, just do one day car to car" Edited July 14, 2004 by CJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scot'teryx Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 1. the cascade river road (still closed at mp 19.5?) Yup, they told me yesterday that they will re-open the orad near the end of this month. day 1: car to boston basin day 2: boston basin to peak back to basin to car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 2 weeks ago the gully was still going as i saw people downclimbing it. the trail still has the avalanche debris in it, but is very easy to cross now w/o getting misoriented. still a strenous hike up though, so doing the climb and descent on the same day makes a lot more sense, unless the weather is on the verge of crapping out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ Posted July 15, 2004 Author Share Posted July 15, 2004 Great info. Thanks guys. Ivan, did you happen to see anyone downclimbing the rocks next to the gully? Does that seem like a viable option? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronB Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 I recommend down climbing the gully to 5 rappels onto the snow of the glacier.. Skip down climbing the couloir.. 2 of the rappels end before the next set of slings, so don't rap off the end. Just a few moves of down climbing to the next slings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 i didn't see anyone downclimbing the gully rock, but it was clear. i've gone that route, simul-climbing before and found it most annoying, but still probably the best way off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeveless Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Single or dbl rope rap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronB Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 We did with 1 60m rope.. but did come short on 2 of the raps.. one wasn't too bad.. the other "the last one" was in a sketchy spot. I held onto the ends of the rope while reaching with other arm to clip daisy into slings.. Just be aware. Saves the steep downclimbing of the couloir, which I've never done, so maybe someone else can give better beta on that option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeveless Posted July 16, 2004 Share Posted July 16, 2004 Did the downclimb back in 99! Not too bad, a little nerve racking, considering the gapping crevasse at the bottom. Had 50m rope at the time, which wasn't an option. A LOT of snow that year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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