BreezyD Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 Climb: Mt. Rainier-Disappointment Cleaver Date of Climb: 7/11/2004 Trip Report: After practically being blown down the Cowlitz by 90 mph winds in 1998, my Dad and I decided to take another stab at Rainier this year. We scrapped a team together and have been climbing together since about April. This was my second attempt at Rainier. Greg, Tim, and I made it up to Camp Muir on Friday afternoon and set up camp in relatively good weather. The rest of our team would join us on Saturday so we spent most of Saturday hanging out and chatting with other teams. The rest of the team, Lisa, my Dad (Doug), and Brian, made it up to Muir Saturday afternoon. We hit the tents at 6:30 for our 1:30 summit attempt. When 1:30 rolled around, the winds had picked up and were pretty gusty but we decided to go for the summit anyway. We started out across the Cowlitz Glacier and scrambled up through Cathedral Gap. At the top of Cathedral Gap, Lisa was feeling pretty sick and decided that the summit was out of the question. We changed rope teams and my Dad took her back down to camp. The remaining four of us headed up the mountain after rearranging the rope order. We made our way up to Ingraham Flats in the moonlight and traversed across to the bottom of Disappointment Cleaver. The temperatures were cold, the route solid, and ascended the clever with little difficulty. While on the cleaver, we were treated to the most gorgeous sunrise that turned the entire mountain a vibrant pink and cast a warm glow across the clouds in the valley below. Near the top of the cleaver, Brian started to get a severe headache and was experiencing leg fatigue so at the top of the cleaver, the decision was made that the safest move was to take him back down to camp and forget about trying to summit. It was a tough decision to make because the rest of us felt really strong and we knew that given a few more hours, we would be at the summit. It was made even tougher by the amazing weather and insane views which would only get better as we got higher! As we started to head back down, Brian's headache, and his spirits, started to improve. After a short lunch in the warm sunshine back at Ingraham flats, we headed back down to Muir. I was disappointed in not making the summit ... but at the same time ... I had an amazing time in a gorgeous place with some of my great friends. Additionally, I had the opportunity to climb higher that I ever have before ... a new personal best! All in all ... the trip was a total success in my mind. Plans are underway to take another shot at it ... 3rd time's a charm? I was reminded of the following things this weekend: 1) Your team is only as strong as your weakest member. 2) Fruit leather freezes at 12,000 ft. 3) If you laugh too hard for too long while you are at altitude, sweet dizziness sets in. 4) If I could marry the mountains, I would. Gorgeous and unpredictable ... what more could a girl want? Some pictures in gallery if anyone is interested in taking a gander. Gear Notes: Standard glacier gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted July 13, 2004 Share Posted July 13, 2004 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dlofgren Posted July 14, 2004 Share Posted July 14, 2004 Good for you, BreezyD. You are right in there with most of the rest of us: more turn-backs (not failures)than summits. Maybe it could be be called a failure if the journey wasn't so sweet. Hang in there, you'll get to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmuja Posted July 15, 2004 Share Posted July 15, 2004 Just a friendly thought BreezyD; next time you guys might want to stay an entire day above 10 thou and drink like 6 quarts of water each while aclimatizing. Well, just drink alot! When my brother and I did it last month we almost sprinted to the top ;-) I chalk this up to hydration and aclimatization. I'm convinced that this was the trick, just based on knowing my body and past climbs. Sounds like twas a beautiful morning on the cleaver! Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreezyD Posted July 15, 2004 Author Share Posted July 15, 2004 Agreed, dmuja ... That is what Greg, Tim and I did. I think that it's the only reason I felt as good as I did. Next time I will try and get the rest of the team to join my Muir party! B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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