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[TR] Prusik Peak- West Ridge - Day Trip 7/10/2004


zoroastr

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um, bug, the words of advice are geniune and good, but wouldn't they be best pm'ed to the poor dude instead of making him look a tool to the whole world?

True. I am harsh. The 5K M mountain in Peru he is climbing next week will be harsher.

Sorry if I offended anyone. Seriously. I have been climbing alpine for 35 years and see a disaster lurking. I may piss him off and look like a total f'n jerk. But if one thing I say helps him push for the speed that helps him avoid death in a freak storm at altitude then my karma is still good. I don't see any signal that he accepts anything I said in PM's or elswhere. Spray at me all you want. I am worried about him.

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Speed only comes with experience and concentrating on it over several climbs. If you try to force yourself, you might increase your chances of an accident. Having said that, there are lots of safe ways to speed things up. The biggest waster of time is not in the climbing itself, but in standing around thinking about climbing. It's frustrating when you top out on a pitch, build and anchor and yell "on belay" and your partner isn't ready to climb immediately.

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Yeah, that's why I liked Bug's post (though a little harsh) - it's all about speeding up the things that you can safely - packing, re-reacking, staying organized, staying focused. I'm still a n00b and tend to lead slowly but I try to be as efficient and fast as I can in every other aspect.

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climbing is mostly luck with alot of skill involved.

 

Nonsense, young man, I say nonsense. I see it as exactly the opposite (mostly skill - including good-decision making, "luck" on occasion), because if it wasn't, I would have been gone decades ago.

 

roulette.jpg

Ain't my style.

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Luck has had a great deal to do with my survival. It was those near misses that convinced me that I had to listen carefully to the people who knew what they were doing. If I had tried to impose my style or methods on any of them, they would have climbed with someone else as well. Oddly enough, most of them had pretty much the same style and methods with a few technical tweaks of their own. I still like good luck. I just don't count on it.

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climbing is mostly luck with alot of skill involved. moving fast has everything to do with efficiency. frustrating or not, waiting for your partner...that's part of the sport.

and btw...i asked how long u have climbed not led?

The answer is 7 years, then. You are right about the waiting part. I'm not really an especially impatient person. The nice thing about climbing in the mountains is that even though you have to wait a lot, you can always enjoy the view. The time usually flies by without your noticing it much.
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Since this seems to be an open discussion on how best to criticize partners, my question for Bug is, did you talk to him about your concerns prior to posting them here?

Yes. Not to rehash, but I really would not have done that if I didn't think he was seriously pushing the limits of his survival. bigdrink.gif

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