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Forbidden Exposure?


Blakej

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I've been invited to join a group headed up the 50 classics route on Forbidden. I'm a strong enough climber and all but I must admitt I dont have much high alpine experience and its been quite a while since I was up really high on a technical climb. Exposure when say there is the potential for a nasty pendulum is the major concern as it tends to get me a bit sketched. I'd hate to put these guys in a position to retreat on a great climb. So how is the exposure? Does the rock feel solid and fairly straight forward for a follower? Advice?

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exposure is a major part of climbing it is best you get over it soon...

that said dont focus on the fall or the potential fall think of the climbing ahead, think about getting laid, just laugh out loud and enjoy life!...you know just relax and appreciate the views...the climbing is pretty trival on that route so i wouldnt worry about whipping unless you are a bouldering poser!!!

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To contradict my last post I love exposure. Its the feeling that makes me want to climb but it does limit me and I need more of it to be that guy walking that 6inch snow ridge that just drops on both sides. I want that but like I said I would hate to be in the position to make my team retreat. Any suggestions of what to expect on this route?

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Exposure is heinous dude hahaha.gif.

But it's all quite easy and you can sew it up anywhere you want. I'd be more worried about dying in the couloir and/or on the descent. So if you're thinking of bailing halfway up, just remember it'll be harder to bail than make it to the summit! grin.gif

 

forbid3.jpg

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Exposure is definitely relative to the mental state of the person experiencing at the time. (nice photo chuck)

 

That said, right now, I am really freaked out by the new State law that makes me responsible for the employees of any Subcontractors I hire if their employer is not paying their L+I premiums! wazzup.gifhellno3d.giftongue.gif

 

Now that is what I call EXPOSURE...

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I did that route last August, and like you I was a little nervous about how I'd do. I've been climbing rock for about 18 years, and still suck at it. cool.gifMuch more comfortable on the snow and ice. Anyway, the climbing is pretty casual for it's grade, and probably equates to East coast 5.4 . There were a couple spots that were exposed but no really big deal. Just focus on your hands and feet. Once you step up you don't need to see anything below your heels, so don't look.

 

Like someone else said , the hardest part of the route is the snow colouir ,tand the loose 4th [?]class pitch before the ridge. Don't know the conditions now, but we did it in August and the 'scrund was completly open. Had to make a wide step across a gap to a rock ledge, then walk down this a little and climb up the snow back up above the 'scrund.

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The exposure is awesome but manageable on Forbidden. One sketchy place is the couloir. Exercise caution ascending the steep ice. It can be bypassed by climbing a series of ledges to the left of the couloir. On the cruxes along the ridge there is scary exposure on the right toward Boston Basin, but in many of the tough spots one can move left onto the NW face to avoid exposure. There's an exposed step-across to the summit block. By the time you get there, you'll be ready for it. I wouldn't worry about the exposure, the thing to worry about on the West Ridge is moving fast. Don't dilly dally.

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Oh, it looks like that. It was snowing on that pitch.

The ridge is solid, straightforward, and wonderful enough that it shouldn't bug you.

The descent was, for me, a different matter. Easy enough but oddly insecure and massively exposed, facts compounded by the fact that we did most of it unroped after 2 75 foot raps off the summit. My mind eased when we put the rope back on near the end.

A very cool climb, enjoy

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