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Olympus Rock Pro?

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I am looking at doing Olympus this weekend (weather permiting, but it is not looking so good at the moment) and I have read that the summit is a 4th class scramble but also that pro is advisable.


Anyone have advise on the summit block and what pro is good to have along? Any input is greatly appreciated.

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There are many ways to climb the summit block. Most experienced climbers do not need even to rope up, as you can find rather easy way up, but rope is advisable, at least for the descent which is nice in rappel.

The easiest part to climb up I found (I may have overlook something else)is by going up the steep snow (coming from five fingers), and traversing the east side to the south, slighly ascending (a rather obvious ledge). Then there is an easy ascent leading to a big flake (maybe 3m high?, short at least), and it's the only real climbing. I did use simply a sling for protection here (not a great pro, but it was more psychological, the move is easy). You'll arrive on a small ledge where a big rock is slinged for rappeling down the way back (only a short rappel, no need for a long rope). From there you are almost at the summit, climbing is done. I think this is the end of the route 1 described in the "Climbers guide to the Olympic Mountains" (the flake being "climbing a crack on the E side").

So you don't need more than your glacier travel stuff.

Of course you can climb a more difficult area, but I can't tell what would be really advisable. Rock is not very good, but it could be worst...



I Hope you'll have a nice weather!




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It looks like I'll be up there this weekend too -- we'll see you there!


Do we need a full rope or a half rope for the summit rappel? I've read reports that recommend each option.

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Hello Xtiesue,


I usually use for glacier travel a 150ft half double rope (that is half a classical rappel), but maybe a shorter one could be used by experienced climbers (I would say 90 ft would be a minimum for a two person party, you need to keep free rope for crevass rescue, so it leaves only 30 ft between the two climbers, a little short maybe).

That 90 ft rope would give a 45ft rappel that is sufficient for the rappel I mentionned on the East side ("only a short rappel"). on the NW side there's also another rocks with slings, from which you can do a longer rappel. There a 150ft rope (giving a 75ft rappel) would be a little short I think, but probably give access to easy down climbing... Last time I used it, there was another roped party on the summit, and we used both our ropes for a longer rappel to the snow.


So as I said, you don't really need extra gear, only glacier travel gear.


Hope it helps, and hope you'll have a nice climb!

Post about the glacier condition when you'll be back...



Best regards,




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