robertm Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Approached up Silverstar creek on Saturday to climb Clean Break on Juno on Sunday. We set up camp and decided to climb Bachus tower from the east (same side as Clean Break). The rock looked pretty good from a distance (not so good up close... loose blocks) with an attractive summit ridge. We dubbed the climb "Compound Fracture"... description follows: Bypassed snow couloir on rh side via short 5th class rock sections intermixed with several hundred ft of 3rd class continuing up loose scree on rock until level with lower section of broken face. Inspected a direct line on rh side of face from ledge through crack system and small roof but abandoned that for short scramble up cleaver in rh gully transitioning back to face about 100' up. From top of cleaver, traverse left and up to face. Climb and stem chimney to reach ledge, traverse left until beneath hand crack. Climb crack to a roof and upper face (5.10-). Climbing toward and then on ridge, find summit (3-4p mid 5th ). Not highly recommended but has a couple of quality pitches - a good option for the approach day for Clean Break. On Sunday we climbed Clean Break with some great weather and good climbing. Started climbing at 7 AM and was on top at 1:30 PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Went up to the Enchantments with rbw and climbed the West Ridge of Prussik car-to-car in a day. We had great conditions and minimal company on route. Freakin' granite ate our ropes on rappell and we had to postpone the 10 mile hike out by 90 minutes waiting from the next party to retrieve our gear. Sunday we climbed at Mounties But encouraging my girlfriend and a couple of her friends to lead trad and capped off the weekend skinny dipping with two hot blondes in Icicle Creek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Made my first attempt on Rainier, via the Emmons (Dog) Route. I made it to 12,500 and then descended with a sick member of our party. He was mostly suffering from altitude and dehydration, dissyness, etc..., he felt better as we wnet down. I kept my chin up, just glad to be there in good weather. The rest of our 7 person team went on to the summit, I went for cheeseburgers. They should be still up at Emmons Flats tonight. Hope they are warm Rainier is way cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by erik: i quit climbing. i have one more route to do, then i am out for good....... and what route would that be?? and why did you quit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 the route is the nose free in a day and he has to train for it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Dr. Flash Amazing is proud to announce that this weekend he successfully ticked the technical and committing Couch-to-Beer traverse in an astonishing 16 seconds round-trip (including decapping, thank you). Next weekend, a fast 'n' light alpine-style assault on the New Seasons beer aisle is planned, weather permitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Dr. Flash Amazing is proud to announce that this weekend he successfully ticked the technical and committing Couch-to-Beer traverse in an astonishing 16 seconds round-trip (including decapping, thank you). Next weekend, a fast 'n' light alpine-style assault on the New Seasons beer aisle is planned, weather permitting. Hey i did that problem too... V7%alc./vol from the sit down start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Ah, for an added degree of enjoyment, there's the summer classic (considered too cold for winter) Couch-to-white port route, a stellar and rather relaxing line, even given the hassle of the specific gear needed (i.e. a port glass). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckaroo Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Climzalot: This past week we made it up , Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them. cgentzel@aai.cc how was the weather in the bugs?, did you do south howser in one day or two? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 the barber pole on liberty bell, then cave route on concord tower, super fun climbing, perfect weather, in the sun, minimal gapeage on the summit,and southwest side of the bell, gotout of the gully descent before group of 4 toting ice axes, and plastics headed down, was fun watching whomever was on e face lexington, brings back fond memories, and saw 2 folks cruze nw corner on news. not only did we score awesome routes never climbed b/f by us, but had them to ourselves, and had entertainment across the spires all day, serenity at the pass on a sunday... lovely, and not too common these days. whatupp with the "robster craw", bugger bradley memorial route on lexington, thats the sweet one... yup bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiplash Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Mt.Fury and Luna Peak via access creek. Perfect weather and incredible views. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chongo Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 Free soloed North Norwegian Buttress 6 hours car to car after my partner said he was scairt and went home. Where is the chestbeater icon jon and/or tim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted August 20, 2002 Author Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Chongo: Free soloed North Norwegian Buttress 6 hours car to car after my partner said he was scairt and went home. Where is the chestbeater icon jon and/or tim? Nice job, what do you rate it free? 5.19b? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 I climbed at Baloney Dome! FA's on Baloney Poney, Baloney Express and Yul Brynner's Finest Hour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chongo Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Bronco: quote:Originally posted by Chongo: Free soloed North Norwegian Buttress 6 hours car to car after my partner said he was scairt and went home. Where is the chestbeater icon jon and/or tim? Nice job, what do you rate it free? 5.19b? Naw there is one pitch of 12c R/X and most of the rest is casual 5.11c and 11d. I had to enhance a few holds but that is the price you gotta pay for a classic free route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigWallBigBallsRocky Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Chongo: quote:Originally posted by Bronco: quote:Originally posted by Chongo: Free soloed North Norwegian Buttress 6 hours car to car after my partner said he was scairt and went home. Where is the chestbeater icon jon and/or tim? Nice job, what do you rate it free? 5.19b? Naw there is one pitch of 12c R/X and most of the rest is casual 5.11c and 11d. I had to enhance a few holds but that is the price you gotta pay for a classic free route.LIAR!!! I was soloing the South Norwegian Buttress this weekend and if you are the guy i Saw on NNB you had a rope, you solo-AIDED a few pitches, chipped away at the rock with a big fucking cold chisel, then backed off when you saw someone was watching you. LOSER!! Why don't you grow some balls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.