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Bronco

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Just back home, outta the shower & cracking cold bier #2 after being first group to summit Shuksan this morning... and enjoyed some delightful hail at the base of the summit pyramid on our way down...

 

Then confirmed the rumors that my nickname is in fact a climbing term courtesy of the 'sport-climbing terms' post... huh, who knew.

 

Sleeeepy time now.

--coondog.

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Don't forget to drink that bier IN the shower Coondog, that's the best way to savor an accomplishment.

 

Forget to list my noteworthy accomplishment of the week: after several afternoon drinks of Bacardi and Powerade I convinced my female roommate to climb the Tooth with me. We hit the trail with a full buzz at 2:30 pm. She decided to hike in her panties and soon after we saw her boss [laf]

Finished the climb and got home in time fer dinner [chubit][big Drink]

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Naw, using her as a distraction wouldn't even make up for her slow speed and the constant whining noise that comes from her mouth. Besides, she's an REI sport climbing instructor, not even cool enough to be a Cascadeclimber [laf]

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Three Fingered Jack, OR

 

Did a very long lower down from above "the crawl" over the west face. Collected the following: two polar fleece jackets, a purple wool hat, a small backpack. The rock was abysmal. Had to be a second, if not first descent/ascent! [rockband]

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This past week we made it up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Gimli and the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them.

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

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quote:

Originally posted by Dru:

judging by what you found, i would say at least 2, possibly 4 previous descents had been made unless you suggest they all fell as a group (while roped together...)

Damn your right, foiled again! We really wanted the first ascent of that magnificent line. This was all crap that people had let blow off the ridgeline. There is yet another nalgene teetering below the crawl if anyone wants it. We didn't have time to rerig on the other side.

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quote:

Originally posted by Climzalot:

This past week we made it up West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Gimli and the Cooper/Hiser route on Chimney Rock in Idaho. Coming back to work is always so hard after a week in the mountains. I would be happy to provide info on these places if you are headed to any of them.

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

first time is funny... second time is silly... 3rd time is a spanking! [laf]

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On Saturday, Liberty Bell / Overexposure, Concord / N Face, Lexington / N Face, NEWS / W Face, and SEWS / W Face. On NEWS, at the base of the 5.11 crack with the funky looking horn with a bunch of slings for a belay anchor, partner put an elbow through my glasses, sending 1 lens down the rock. Completed the climb, descended then reclimbed the first pitch to look for lens on the big ledge. We spent 2 unsuccessful hours looking. But I did find 1 stopper, 1 roll exposed film, 1 wire gate biner, 1 broken biner, and 1 roll tape. Bummer, but went on in semi blind condition. FYI, I thought the 5.9 variation on the SEWS / W Face was a sandbag. In looking at the register on Lexington, the last several parties indicated it was climbed as part of a traverse of the Liberty Bell group, apparently a fairly popular linkup.

 

I spent Sunday getting new glasses.

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That was probably us up there on the NW corner of NEWS. Greg_W and I hit it on Saturday. Great climb [big Grin] Heading up an obvious line. Almost surprised the first ascent didn't happen until the mid seventies, but then again the big dihedral pitch probably would have been tough to protect with gear back then.

 

It shares the first pitch with the west face, and then scrambles through some easy trees to a small dihedral and face climbing to a nice ledge atop the third pitch. We were able to link the 2nd and 3rd. The 4th pitch was where the fun began. A wonderful lieback, undercling, short pitch to a nice stance. Then the long dihedral off-width. It wasn't too bad, once we brought out the [HORSECOCK] Those two pitches were a bit tough, but all the moves were there. The sixth pitch looked a bit scary and loose to start, but was solid and enjoyable. From there it was easy on to the summit! Recommended [big Grin]

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Ahh The Carmigan Traverse: 2 cars for every man , woman , and child. The Global Warming Shuttle trip that didnt happen!! Stebbi where did you take that picture of yourself that you use in your avatar? was it before your 5 epics on the Challenger travers?? I must have a trip report on It on my desk in the morning!

I am still high from Bear Mt,

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