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Who climbed what?


Bronco

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We have a great climbing area on the N.Shore, along Lake Superior. I had never climbed rock there before (the ice is all inland, anyway). It was fantastic! Somewhat intimidating while standing on a car size boulder, staring at a great big wall in front of you and nothing but this magnificent, endless lake behind you...waves crashing. aaaah! [smile]

 

I spent a ridiculously loooooooong time on a particular climb that I honestly didnt think I could top out on. I dont know how or where I got the strength to finish...but I did. What a great feeling! [big Grin] I also learned what is meant by "sharp rock". My hands are ripped to shreds!

 

One person backed out on finishing the climb. her husband, a non climber, rapped down and they were going to take an "escape" route out. Unfortunately the water was too high and they couldnt get to it...so those of us in my group all learned how to rig a pulley system in the dark. Later, I read in a guidebook that the particular area we were in is the only place in the midwest you can truley be "marooned". Werd!

 

Alpinek (and V)- when I was on my outward bound trip we climbed the finger (?) next to the route you did, I believe. I remember wishing I was climbing that instead...looked like a lot of fun as I watched a couple rapp off the route. Glad you enjoyed it.

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Apparantly kept my girlfriend awake with my snoring while bivied on the Coleman Glacier, but I don't belive her because I have NEVER heard myself snore. [Razz] My Dad didn't complain, but he took sleeping pills... a fun time was had by all. AA's first glacier slog! And TR!

[big Drink][big Drink][big Drink]

 

[ 07-24-2002, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: Mr. Natural ]

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More exploring on East Buttress of Big Snow Mountain. Broke off left from from the red line (previous route) where it makes the jog right under the shadow. Will post TR when pictures come back.

 

Clean granite (until you get right of the crest [shadowed part in picture]). Many pitches. Easy descent right now.

 

Go get it before they close the Middle Fork Road.

 

-

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Climbed into a praying position with my toilet after bout of food poisoning.

 

NEED TO LOSE WEIGHT FAST?! IT's the latest craze! Food Poisoning!! Lose 5 pound in one day! Trim your tummy line and strengthen your abs!!

 

Call now and we'll add completely free of charge a fever, clod sweats and one hell of a headache too!!

[big Grin]

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quote:

Originally posted by Cairns:

Squamish, Crap Crags to Clean Corner. Good practice session on cedar and 5.8

Really? Nice! How many pitches you figure? Worth cleaning up over the fall or a waste of time? Surprised it stayed sub-5.10

 

[ 07-24-2002, 05:27 PM: Message edited by: jordop ]

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2 easy routes at Seneca WV in the pouring rain. Never climbed in full on rain and I have to say I did not mind. Soaking wet, water running down arm, rain in eyes every time I looked up, wrinkled fingers, etc...

Friction was better than I thought it would be. I hope the sun is out next time. I would like to get on something harder than 5.4 [smile]

Jedi

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Nope, no sleeping in the gravel for me. I'm apparently both too old and not old enough for that shit.

 

The picture isn't Jberg, though I see the resemblence. The C-J couloir doesn't get that broken up.

 

Say, that wasn't you that bashed my car, was it?

 

[Wink]

 

[ 07-25-2002, 11:47 AM: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

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quote:

Originally posted by jordop:

quote:

Originally posted by Cairns:

Squamish, Crap Crags to Clean Corner. Good practice session on cedar and 5.8

Really? Nice! How many pitches you figure? Worth cleaning up over the fall or a waste of time? Surprised it stayed sub-5.10

We did about 3 pitches of Crap Crags, then several exploratory forays along Trichrome Ledge to get to the base of Clean Corner. Local climber John Howe has said that up here, "The trees are winning." On Crap Crags they have won, dictated the terms of surrender, packed the climbers off to reservations, and built cities. You follow your partner's progress by the shaking foliage, like Tarzan can tell where the elephant is.

 

Ropes, bolts, cleaning, and potential were noted below Trichrome Ledge.

 

As far as the technical rating of Clean Corner goes, you could ask yourself, "What did 5.8 mean in 1962?" An older guide says, "It involves three pitches of chimneying and offwidth climbing. Take a dozen appropriate nuts..." Appropriate?

 

Andy Cairns

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