Matt Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 So what's up with the alternate start on the third pitch of Davis-Holland-- which by the way is my new found favorite climb at Index. I tried the suposed 5.10a alternate face moves protected by the bolt and found it to be very funky. Eventually I retreated to the original route, up the roof/crack to the right of the belay. Maybe I just haven't been doing enough face climbing lately so I feel more safe and secure when my hand is wedged in a crack. I thought the crack was easier. What do youse think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 face climbing is for hotties in a sport tops only!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 [ 07-22-2002, 04:26 PM: Message edited by: TimL ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 Matt - Sounds like guidebook writer is an idiot! I haven't actually done that variation but other feedback suggests that it is a bit harder than .10a. Maybe 10c? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 22, 2002 Share Posted July 22, 2002 Face climbing on sparsely spaced bolts is pretty spicy. Erik you just aint in practice for it like me Matter of fact the only thing I am in practice for is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted July 22, 2002 Author Share Posted July 22, 2002 This is what I love about cc.com-- start spraying about a route and the guide book author pipes up! Darryl-- I found the variation to be more awkward than the original route. The bolt is in a wierd place-- I was close to doing a factor 2 fall on the anchors trying to clip it. After a very short factor 1 fall I decided to give the roof a try-- it was easier than it looked. I'm sure there are plenty of climbers better than me who can do the variation barefoot in the rain wearing a swami belt. All in all, the route was full value every pitch!! Another example of what pin scars can do for free climbing! [ 07-22-2002, 04:51 PM: Message edited by: Matt ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted July 23, 2002 Share Posted July 23, 2002 I haven't seen the guide book, bu I also think that it is more like .10c and no give away at that. Besides, the tradiional start is more fun. The variations to the fourth and fifth pitches, however, are great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yos Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 Anyone want to give this route a go this weekend to see what all the fuss is about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 Early morning, or late afternoon Yos...then again, you should be aware of that. Have fun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 I saw that bolt! Is the 1st pitch of Lovin' Arms all dry as a bone right now? Mostly I'm just posting this to see if my little avatar-image thingy is working yet. How about now? [ 07-24-2002, 01:54 PM: Message edited by: chucK ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepinglady Posted July 24, 2002 Share Posted July 24, 2002 [ 07-25-2002, 08:31 AM: Message edited by: sleepinglady ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadSpace Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 Wake up lady! His name is spelled "Vi k tor", and why would he want to post with all the BS spray that goes on around here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleepinglady Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 [ 07-25-2002, 08:31 AM: Message edited by: sleepinglady ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeadSpace Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 You wake up with your panties in a bunch? Go back to sleep already. Besides, I hate dogs. Oh, and it's "Dar r yl" [ 07-24-2002, 05:57 PM: Message edited by: HeadSpace ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rr666 Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 I just want to say that climb rocks. Those are some of the best pitches around. Then heading up through Lovin' Arms. Lovely I think pulling the original roof is loads of fun. From below looks scary as hell, but completely positive once you commit. However, I don't think I would want to fall on that one though. It would probably hurt a tad bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daler Posted July 25, 2002 Share Posted July 25, 2002 After DH try the new finish to the right of Lovin' Arms is goes at about index 11c. It rocks. It is in the back of the new guide book as an addition in the back of the book. I think its better than Lovin' Arms. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.