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[TR] Forbidden Peak- West Ridge 6/20/2004


zoroastr

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Climb: Forbidden Peak-West Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/20/2004

 

Trip Report:

Partner Erick Johnson and I had intended to climb both Mt. Torment and Forbidden Peak during the Father's Day weekend, but we arrived in the B. Basin somewhat tired and late, and so opted for a relaxed Saturday in camp. The rest day payed off and the Sunday climb up the West Ridge of Forbidden went well. Having climbed the East Ridge Direct last October during an unseasonably warm and sunny weekend, we were looking forward to what we thought would be a much shorter and slightly less technical ascent of the West Ridge--not so! The WR is shorter, and the descent is trickier, but they feel about the same in terms of exposure and commitment.

Early in the morning, we had no problems in the gully [see Iceguy's TR for a good description of current gully conditions] and were on the ridge quickly. The eight or so pitches of mid-fifth class ridge climbing were fun and occasionally athletic, with constant, huge exposure and very nice aerial views of the Boston and Qien Sabe glaciers, Moraine Lake [sp?] in all its turquoise splendor, and innumerable surrounding North Cascades peaks--there's always plenty to look at during extended belays. The summit is magnificent, located at the center of a perfect intersection of the three pyramidal ridges. The apex of the peak is also the home of a huge population of ladybugs. Linger for more than a few minutes, and they'll be all over you. I don't think they bite, though, and they look kewl.

I'm a bit of a newb, and this kind of route is right at the limit of my psychological comfort zone. Still, I had a great time on the notorious descent, enjoying it even more than the up-climb. Erik and I made good progress down the ridge, and encountered no difficulties on descent, apart from the miserable late-afternoon snow conditions in the gully and the slopes below the 'schrund.

Arriving back at camp, located on slabs above the solar toilet [currently snow-buried], we paused briefly and feasted on a strange but remarkably tasty one-pot concoction made of instant mashed potatoes, Lipton chicken soup, Top Ramen, and diced salami--pure ambrosia!

Donning wet boots and hoisting heavy packs, we bolted for the trailhead, making the car before dark.

 

Gear Notes:

Two-day pack, axe, crampons [handy, but not really necessary in the gully], rack: nuts to 2", several small to medium cams, lots of runners [including a couple of biggies for lassoing endless horns].

 

Approach Notes:

Plan on walking an extra three miles from the Eldorado trailhead where the gate is closed for the foreseeable future, owing to major washouts up-road. Kick yourself as you notice several other more intelligent climbers mouting bicycles for the extra road section.

Also: remember to change you camera batteries--ours were dead, so the attached pic is from last year's East Ridge climb. wave.gif

364715-forbid-E.jpg.a7da255d60f7130d06c630a09894521e.jpg

Edited by zoroastr
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Approach Notes:

Plan on walking an extra three miles from the Eldorado trailhead where the gate is closed for the foreseeable future, owing to major washouts up-road. Kick yourself as you notice several other more intelligent climbers mouting bicycles for the extra road section.

 

How much of it is rideable? If I remember correctly, the road gets steep after a while... just not sure how far along.

 

Thanx bigdrink.gif

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Any mountain bike with at least 1.25" tires would work well; knobbies even better. The whole road section is bikeable with the exception of the washouts, which might even be fixed by now. If not, you just have to carry the bike for a few feet over a big log--no prob. Fair warning: off-road gears recommended due to some steepness on the way in, but you'll make the three-mile descent in ten minutes or less! hahaha.gif

 

p.s. I've attached a pic of the start of the climb. It was taken by Iceguy who graciously sent it to me after my partner's camera battery died.

367168-start.thumb.jpg.1a2c28adf2d55bb97da96564b0fa9bae.jpg

Edited by zoroastr
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