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krazy_1

a question for all you free climbers

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I'm going to admit to being retarded right out, nor shall I say I'm a great climber right from the start but... here's the question.

 

I have no problem buzzing up a 5.9/5.10 free. Even my boyfriend gives me crap about my ablility to climb better without rope. But when it comes to bouldering I can't stick a V1 without freaking a little about falling. What the hell is that all about? Am I the only one with this problem?

 

krazy 1

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Just to avoid confusion, krazy 1:

 

It sounds like you are talking about free-soloing, and not merely free climbing. Probably all of the climbing that you do is free climbing (without the use of aid).

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quote:

Originally posted by krazy 1:

Am I the only one with this problem?

 


Yes.

 

[ 07-21-2002, 11:54 AM: Message edited by: lizard brain ]

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The only difference between top roping and free soloing is the mental knowledge that you are ok if you are not able to do the moves. So carry the same mental framework of free soloing wherever you are. Heck your belayer could be taken out. Really what it comes down to is you only and the climb. I am not trying to psyche you out . Lets look at the situation. Say you are so good at 5.8 you should be able to do 5.9, right? You should be able to lead any 5.7? You are physically then able to free any thing 5.9 and below except you know you have a saftey zone.Get as much experience within your comfortable saftey zone, but, pretend in your mind that you are free solo and maybe putting in pro. This will give you the framework for when you are in harms way and mentally you will be ready for it . Being calm is the first disciple to master, confidence comes with success and is the second. If you are ambitious, tr 5.10s and this will make 5.9s easier too. Climbing is so mental

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Ok so I get the mental part, for that is one reason why I started climbing - total focus. Maybe where I get psyched out is because in a bouldering situation I'm seeing others I'm with fall over and over trying to send the same route, giving failure or falling the option - where as if I'm just heading out to free climb a 5.9/10 (or whatever) and my focus is on the fact that failure is NOT an option. So seeing that I give myself the option of failure when just bouldering while with buddies. I would then need to adjust my mental thinking. Is that what you are saying? is everyone totally confused?

 

I think what I need is to just go into every situation with better focus and mental attention - and just kick ass. Right?

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ok yeah free soloing if that means no aid no rope no nada just me crawling up a rock, then that's what I'm talking about.

 

and thanks lizard brain, ok I'm retarded.

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quote:

Originally posted by krazy 1:

I would then need to adjust my mental thinking.

Yes, mental thinking. Adjust that about 3/4 turn to the left.

 

Maybe you're worried about bad bouldering falls. If you're talking about bouldering outside, I'd say you are understandably worried. There are some nasty ankle-breaking landings to be had while bouldering 3 feet up, while a 3-foot fall onto a solid piece is no big deal. Maybe that boyfriend of yours could, uh, spot you.

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