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What piece has saved your ass?


Winter

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these are the pieces I've taken the longest falls on "successfully"

 

#2 Camalot

blue alien

green alien

Smileys/Black Diamond screw

 

these are the pieces that were not up to snuff (i.e. broke)

 

Black Diamond #1 wired nut (ground fall)

yellow alien (ground fall)

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Hybrid Alien

 

...either Blue/Green or Yellow/Green

 

Can't tell you how many times I've plugged one of those in a nice pin scar to prevent a long fall after being run out on cam hooks for a while. I hate to leave them behind on a pitch, but sometimes it is the only sane thing to do...

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the blue alien and #00 TCU have both held falls for me. Like Minx my yellow alien is a favorite on my rack.

 

Back in 95 when I first started climbing, my partner took a 25' whipper on the last pitch of Lady Bug at Lover's Leap. A chicken head broke off and the only thing that kept him from serious injury was a #3 brass nut. The whole deal scared the sh!t out of me, being that it was my first multipitch climb and my partner was too scared to lead us out. I learned how to lead real quick...

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